Break the bread, take in its aroma, and then take a bite. That is how chef Vikramjit Roy sets the tone at his Ryoko Classic pop-up dinner, hosted at Rika, Park Hyatt, Banjara Hills. The first course? Shokupan — Hokkaido-style milk bread, soft as a cloud and stuffed with caramelised onions. Paired with chicken pâté, miso butter, and a delicate lamb broth, it is a dish that can be enjoyed on its own or enhanced by dipping the bread into the stew for added depth.
As chef Vikramjit sent out one standout course after another, he also shared his personal journey — from being a salaried professional to an entrepreneur. “I never thought about earning an income in the true sense. It took the pandemic for me and my team of chefs to take that plunge. What we have built since then gives me a high. Sometimes I regret not starting sooner,” he says.
This is chef Vikramjit’s first pop-up with The Park Hyatt. The menu draws from Japanese technique, Asian ingredients, and subtle Indian notes. “Why not incorporate Indian elements into Japanese cuisine?” he asks. “I include common Indian ingredients and let guests try to guess them. Has anyone complained? No. As long as the food isn’t misrepresented, no one minds.”
The menu is a celebration of technique, restraint, and fearless fusion, presented with precision and personality.
Scallop Carpaccio by chef Vikramjit Roy | Photo Credit: Prabalika M Borah
Soon came the tacos, and chef Vikramjit Roy pulled out the “guess-the-ingredient” card. Two bites in, I cracked it (no prizes, sadly), and decided the real reward was the meal itself. Alongside the tacos came braised peanuts and a banana flower salad — the latter a bit chewy, the former reminiscent of the sticky-sweet peanuts you find in Korean rice hotels.
Next, the steamed chicken and cucumber in a creamy sesame dressing arrived alongside a vegetarian version with avocado, dubbed Aona Goma Ae. “Mix it well,” instructed the chef. “Forget the presentation. Until it’s properly tossed, you won’t get the right flavour.” He was not wrong. The chicken, soft and juicy, practically melts, while the sesame sauce steals the show. You would expect rice or noodles on the side, given the Asian leaning, but this Ryoko Classic menu avoids grains. You do not miss them. The protein-forward dishes are rich and satisfying; portions look deceivingly small, but they fill you up. Best to go with a group to try more dishes without tipping over into food coma territory.
The menu leans heavily on miso, sesame and house-made soy. Rather than vaguely “cooked in miso butter,” these condiments take centre stage. It is a great way to explore foundational Asian flavours in their purest forms. You will leave with a clearer understanding of umami.
The corn tempura, one of the vegetarian hot appetisers, offered a salty crunch, perhaps best balanced with a spicy cocktail. But it was the scallop carpaccio that truly dazzled with delicate slices dressed in uni emulsion, a strong contender for top dish if raw seafood’s your thing.
Is Hyderabad the easiest city to source such ingredients for a pop-up? “Tough, to be honest,” chef Vikramjit admits. “Food is all about ingredients. If they are not right, the dish suffers. I might step out for a sabzi run to find the perfect beans for a salad.”
Ryoko Classic Pop-Up runs till April 6 at Rika, Park Hyatt Hyderabad. Dinner only. Tables for two start at ₹2,000.
Published - April 04, 2025 12:36 pm IST
