When Celeste By Mindescapes first opened in Ooty, it was designed as a nostalgic escape, where vintage European comfort food met the misty romance of the Nilgiris. Now, with its new Bengaluru branch, Celeste attempts to recreate that charm in an urban setting. But restaurateur Dipali Sikand’s vision goes beyond just bringing Ooty’s essence to the city; she also wants to revive something Bengaluru has lost — the slow, genteel way of life that existed before the IT boom.
“Bengaluru had a quaint sort of vibe. It’s still in some clubs, but those aren’t accessible to everyone. I wanted to create a space where people can experience fine dining in an affordable, intimate setting, where you’re not just grabbing a meal but soaking in the whole experience,” says Dipali.
We visited Celeste during Christmas week when the restaurant was dressed for the season — stars, Santa hats, bells, and a red, white, and green palette that added a festive touch. We arrived just as they were opening for lunch, which meant we had the place to ourselves. While it did not have the mist and blue hills of its Ooty counterpart, there were thoughtful reminders of the Nilgiris: bright red geraniums on the walls, and Toda shawls — woven by the women of the dwindling tribal community — gracing the tables. Dipali has also made it a point to source ingredients from the hills. “Even our strawberries, baby carrots, and some of our vegetables come from Ooty,” she says.
Bocconcini, Beet, and Berry Salad | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
A leisurely meal
Celeste’s menu is unapologetically old-school European. It is where you can still find dishes like Chicken à la Kiev and Stroganoff, which, according to Dipali, have quietly disappeared from most Bengaluru menus. “You have plenty of restaurants in the city catering to the Gen Z crowd — the pub music, the bands, the loud energy. But where do you go if you want to sit down, have a quiet conversation, and enjoy a classic European meal with old-world etiquette?”
Our meal began with the bocconcini, beet & berry salad, a mix of roasted beets, fresh berries, and creamy bocconcini, tied together with a honey-balsamic dressing. The prawn cocktail had plump, fresh prawns enveloped in a velvety, tangy cocktail sauce. The avocado toast was simple but well-executed, with perfectly ripe avocado, sea salt, and a drizzle of basil oil atop crisp artisanal bread.
For mains, we had the Maryland, a breaded, fried chicken dish served with banana fritters and a creamy sauce. It had a slightly eccentric combination of flavours but was oddly satisfying. The saffron sauce quinoa with prawn evoked elegance, the golden-hued saffron sauce adding depth to the perfectly cooked prawns and nutty quinoa. Other interesting dishes on the menu include the slow-braised lamb shank, spinach ravioli, and the mushroom risotto with truffle oil.
Chicken Maryland | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The true showstoppers
While the meal was enjoyable, the desserts truly stole the show. Celeste has returned the charm of tableside dessert service with a trolley — just like the sweets cart on the Hogwarts Express, but with fewer chocolate frogs and far more French patisserie. “You don’t have to go to the menu to choose your dessert, the trolley will come to you,” says Dipali.
Paris-Brest | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The Paris-brest was the undisputed star of the afternoon. A choux pastry ring filled with praline cream, it was light, nutty, and just the right amount of sweet — an absolute must-try. The tiramisu was equally delightful, striking the perfect balance of coffee, mascarpone, and cocoa. The ganache tart, with its silky dark chocolate filling and a sprinkle of sea salt, was decadent without being overpowering.
The restaurant’s 45-seat capacity ensures it never gets too crowded or noisy. The music, soon to include live jazz, is a far cry from the usual DJ nights and EDM beats. “In the ‘60s and ‘70s, places like Mocambo and Peter Cat in Calcutta had live music with dining. That kind of experience is missing in Bengaluru today,” Dipali says, “This month, we are planning to launch a range of curated experiences like live music and curated menus that revive a bygone era of social gathering.”
Celeste, according to her, is a place for those who remember Bengaluru before the IT boom, for those who appreciate the charm of Ooty, and for those who simply want a quiet, well-cooked meal. And if you’re going just for dessert? That Paris-brest alone is worth the trip.
Published - February 25, 2025 01:26 pm IST
