Democracy Dies in Darkness

A Spanish winemaker ditches cava for sparkling wine with native grapes

The Raventós family has been growing grapes since 1497.

May 23, 2024 at 1:00 p.m. EDT
Pepe Raventós, a winemaker focusing on small batches of thoughtfully produced sparkling grapes made with native grapes, walking in his vineyard. (Raventós i Blanc)
5 min

Pepe Raventós crouched and grabbed a rock to show me. There, in the chunk of limestone, I could discern several small marine fossils, testament to the time more than 5 million years ago before the Mediterranean retreated and revealed the fertile lands of the Anoia River basin.

“This is the true essence of what we make here,” Raventós said. “It’s not just the history of the family, it’s about this soil and the minerality it expresses through the grapes,” he said. Those would be grapes native to the region, especially xarel-lo, the mainstay of the sparkling wines from Raventós i Blanc winery, and sumoll, a red variety.