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The Rolex Submariner isn't exactly controversial. Asking a group of music, design, or fashion experts to name the most important album, building, or collection of the 20th century is a great way to start an argument. Ask a group of watch experts, though, and the answer will almost certainly be the same: the Rolex Submariner. Since its first production run in 1953, the Submariner (now known simply as the “Sub” by collectors) has evolved from a humble piece of diving equipment to the gold standard for luxury tool watches, and a quintessential desk diver. Equal parts capable diving tool (it was the first dive watch rated to 100 meters) and style statement (it’s been available in solid gold since 1969), the Submariner has more than earned its status as one of the world’s most-sought grails over the last 71 years.
That's no accident. For one thing, the Submariner boasts a raft of top-shelf features, like a 904L stainless steel (a.k.a. Oystersteel) case, Chromalight lume, and a Cerachrom (like ceramic, only better) bezel. For another, it’s been embellished over the decades with a bunch of clever improvements, like the easily-adjustable Glidelock bracelet and a range of colorful dials and bezels, not to mention versions in gold and two-tone (a.k.a. Rolesor). But what really gets watch collectors worked up, and makes vintage Submariners some of the most enthusiastically collected watches on the planet, comes down to one thing: consistency.
“Everybody made a diving watch in the ‘60s, but the Submariner is the biggest icon because it hasn’t really changed since,” says Sacha Davidoff, a Geneva-based vintage watch specialist. “It’s like the Porsche 911: it’s the same car, but what’s inside has changed.” Like the iconic German coupe, Davidoff explains, incremental changes to the Submariner over the years have made it more reliable and more robust than its forebears, but the essential form—the geometric hour markers, the “Mercedes” handset, the rotating bezel and Oyster bracelet—looks essentially the same as it did in 1960. “That’s why the Submariner is so important,” Davidoff says. Rolex has "kept the DNA intact while improving the technology.”
For anyone who’s considering joining the ranks of Submariner collectors, the first decision is whether you want a new Sub or a vintage one. If it’s the former, you can choose between the classic Submariner model in Oystersteel with no date or the Submariner Date, which includes more metal choices and colors, not to mention the inimitable Cyclops date window. But for anyone looking to dive into the world of vintage subs, things quickly get more complicated.
With dozens of models (or references, in Rolex-speak) spanning decades, many of which are distinguished by details as subtle as the number of lines of text on the dial or the shape of the crown guards, the world of vintage Submariners can feel as deep as the Mariana trench and just as perilous (for your bank account, anyway). Whichever path you choose, there’s a whole world of Submariner jargon and lore to immerse yourself in along the way. Here are the references that collectors get the most excited about—along with a few places we trust where you can reliably find 'em.
Looking for an approachable ticker to tide you over while you ogle the Subs below? Start here.
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060
The purist’s choice from the current catalog, with a 41mm Oystersteel case, a black time-only dial, and Rolex’s latest automatic movement. If you actually use your dive watch for diving, you can’t do much better than this.
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610LV
To celebrate the Submariner’s 50th anniversary in 2003, Rolex introduced a new model with a green bezel (the “LV” stands for lunette verte) that was eventually dubbed “Kermit” by fans, after The Muppets’ famous singing frog.
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 116610LV
After the Kermit was discontinued in 2010, Rolex turned up the fun by adding a green dial to the mix, earning this steel Sub its “Hulk” nickname.
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 116610
This 2010 model brought in some big changes for the Submariner Date, including a ceramic bezel, Chromalight lume, a new movement, and—most notably—a beefier case with enlarged lugs and crown guards.
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 116619LB
Rolex marked its 2008 centenary with the first Submariner to boast a case and bracelet made from 18k white gold. Fitted with a blue dial and matching bezel, this notorious (and since-discontinued) reference is now known as—what else?—the “Smurf.”
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538
This early Sub was produced from 1954-1959 and is recognizable by its oversized winding crown and lack of crown guards. More importantly, though, it was the watch worn by Sean Connery onscreen in such box office bangers as Dr. No, From Russia with Love, and Goldfinger, making it forever known as the “Bond Sub.”
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 168000
The so-called “Triple-Zero” was the first Sub with a case made from upgraded 904L steel, and marks the shift between vintage and modern Submariner designs. Because it was made for less than a year in the late 1980s, this is one of the more collectible Subs of the modern era.
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680
The advent of the first Submariner Date, the 1680, marked the Submariner’s shift from hardcore tool watch to quintessential desk diver. Made from the late 1960s until 1980, it was also the first Sub to be available in full gold and two-tone variants. Within this reference are also the so-called “Red Sub” versions, which are particularly sought after by collectors thanks to the Submariner name printed in red ink on the dial.
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
For anyone looking to get into vintage Subs without spending a fortune, this reference, which was in production from 1962 until 1989, is a good place to start. Later examples can be found in the high four figures (which, unfortunately, is about as affordable as it gets for vintage Subs), and it also has the distinction of being worn by James Bond in On Her Majesty's Secret Service, Live and Let Die, and The Man with the Golden Gun.
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512
If you want to know the exact moment that the Sub came of age, many collectors will point to this historic reference produced from 1959-1979. The ref. 5512 was made in a whole whack of different variants during its life, but they’re all distinguished by a modern-sized 40mm case (up from 38mm previously) and guards on either side of the crown (Submariner collectors love to talk about crown guards). Oh, and it just so happened to be Steve McQueen’s Sub of choice.
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680/16800/168000 “Comex”
The French underwater engineering firm Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises isn’t a brand most of us would be familiar with if not for its prominent place in the history of the Submariner. From the 1970s through the 1990s, Rolex produced a half-dozen different Submariner references for COMEX divers, many of them with the COMEX logo prominently stamped on the dial. Did it improve the look of the watch? Debatable. Does it make these some of the most collectible (and priciest) Subs out there? It sure does.