Best new watches at Watches and Wonders 2024: my top picks from Rolex, Tudor and more (so far)

Welcome to my roundup of Watches and Wonders 2024, where I’ll keep you updated on all the latest releases and highlights from the largest and most important watch event of the year.

With the eyes of every watch enthusiast and collector on the planet firmly on them, all of the biggest brands have unveiled their latest creations at the Geneva-based watch show, with Rolex, Tudor, Grand Seiko, TAG Heuer, Zenith, all taking part. And that’s just to name a few!

The show is taking place over several days, during which all brands will host a series of events and presentations – I’ll be in attendance, getting hands-on with all of the latest releases.

I’ll be picking my very favourite new launches and keeping you updated along the way. Here are the best new watches at Watches and Wonders 2024 so far… (updating)

Tudor

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

Perhaps my highlight of the show so far is the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. It’s a watch that Tudor fans have been begging for for a long time due to the current Black Bay GMT’s rather chunky dimensions. The Black Bay 58 GMT has a 39mm diameter case and a bidirectional bezel in red and black, with gold numbering. It comes on a cut-to-size rubber strap, or stainless steel bracelet, and is priced from £3,770.

Tudor Black Bay

Taking inspiration from last year’s Black Bay 54, Tudor has also launched a new monochromatic Black Bay in 41mm. It comes with all of the latest in Black Bay enhancements introduced at W&W last year, including the ‘T Fit’ clasp and a movement that is Master Chronometer certified by METAS. It’s priced from £3,630.

Tudor Black Bay 58 18K

If the other two Tudor launches are too understated for you, the new Black Bay 58 18K in full yellow gold could be more your style. It was previously only available on a strap, but the new Black Bay 58 18K features a 3-link yellow gold bracelet, manufacture calibre and ‘T-Fit’ clasp. It weighs in at 193 grams, making it the heaviest watch in Tudor’s collection and is priced at £27,610.

Rolex

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40

A watch that was recently glimpsed at the Oscars, Rolex has expanded the Day-Date range with new versions of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 and the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36. The new models are presented in 18 ct Everose gold, introducing slate ombré – a completely new hue for such a dial. The surface, coloured at the centre, progresses to a deep black around the edge. Also appearing for the first time on the ombré dial of this watch are faceted, deconstructed Roman numerals and faceted index hour markers in 18 ct pink gold.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

Taking the incredibly popular black/grey bezel from last year’s gold GMT-Master II, Rolex has added it to the more attainable Oystersteel version. It feature a 24-hour graduated two-colour Cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic. The graduation is clearly visible thanks to its platinum coating, applied via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The first watch is fitted with either an Oyster bracelet or a Jubilee bracelet.

Rolex 1908

Rolex is elevating the Perpetual 1908 line up, with a new model decked in 950 platinum and graced with an ice blue dial featuring a guilloche rice-grain motif. This rosette-like design is distinctive for its three-dimensional, repeating geometric pattern that extends across the surface of the dial, starting from the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. The minute track is surrounded by a filet sauté with a crimped pattern, which is also guilloché.

Rolex Deepsea

If you find your luxury yatch sinking, you’ll wish you were wearing the new 18 ct yellow gold Rolex Deepsea. This is the first time the professional divers’ watch is presented in 18 ct yellow gold. It sports a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom bezel insert in blue ceramic as well as a blue lacquer dial bearing the name ‘Deepsea’ in powdered yellow.

This new version also incorporates a technical innovation: the high-performance compression ring within the Ringlock system is crafted from ceramic. The compression resistance and anti-deformation properties of this high-tech material contribute to the waterproofness of the watch.

TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer Carerra Chronograph 7753 SN

A new addition to TAG Heuer’s ‘Glassbox’ Carrera Chronograph collection, this model is a reinterpretation of the ‘7753 SN’ chronograph from the late 1960s. The original 7753 SN had a silvered dial with black subdials and was designed for ultimate legibility. The new 2024 model takes Jack Heuer’s 1963 vision and combines it with the ultra-popular modern glassbox 39mm steel case, topped with a sapphire crystal reminiscent of vintage Heuer Carrera models. I love the vintage bi-compax ‘Panda’ dial – it might be my favourite model yet.

TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph

TAG Heuer has taken a step towards Haute Horlogerie d’Avant-Garde with the new TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph. It’s a vibrant tribute to the original 1969 model, with the highly sophisticated rattrapante chronograph complication now encased inside.

Zenith

Zenith Defy Extreme Diver

An extension to Zenith’s Defy Extreme range, this new Diver model is designed to take the range to new depths. Its 42.5mm angular case is crafted in titanium and is rated to 600 metres (60 ATM) of water resistance, which happens to be 1’969 feet – a symbolic number for the DEFY diver. The DEFY Extreme Diver is powered by the El Primero 3620-SC automatic high-frequency manufacture calibre with 60 hours power reserve, visible through a sapphire display back – an uncommon feature among diver’s watches.

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph

According the Zenith, the Defy Skyline collection is finally complete thanks to this stunning new chronograph model. It’s a natural continuation and expansion of Zenith’s popular Defy Skyline range. The new Defy Skyline Chronograph features the Manufacture’s latest iteration of the El Primero automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre, endowed with a 1/10th of a second chronograph function.

Hermès

Hermès Cut

One of my biggest surpises from Watches and Wonders this year was the Hermès Cut. It’s a compact 36mm watch, that is mostly circular asside from some well placed angles. It has beautifully balanced proportions, which is mixture of satin-brushing and polishing on the case. The crown is boldly positioned at half past one and embellished with a lacquered or engraved H. The playful dial is punctuated by luminescent applied Arabic numerals in Hermès’ unique font. The watch is powered by a Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement, and can be customised with a number of quick-change straps.

Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé

Sitting at the other end of the horological scale is the Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé. It features a large, domed saphire glass, which perfect displays the triple axis tourbillon and a minute repeater below.