Travel guide 2024: What to see, do, eat and drink in Chennai

Visit the San Thome Cathedral Basilica, founded by the Portuguese in 1523 and rebuilt by the British in 1896, which is known to be the final resting place of the apostle known as “Doubting Thomas”.

Marvel at the colourful gopurams of Kapaleeshwar temple in Mylapore. Walk among herds of deer at the Guindy National Park. And if all you’ve got is one afternoon, climb up the Madras Lighthouse on Marina Beach for a rare view of the Bay of Bengal.

San Thome Cathedral Basilica, Chennai. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

Spend an afternoon inside the Theosophical Society grounds, where, amid a bounty of botanical wonders, you can also explore a mosque, church, Buddhist shrine, a Zoroastrian temple and a Hindu temple.

Sign up for a heritage walk with Madras Inherited — through Mylapore, or to explore Chennai’s bounty of Indo-Saracenic architecture, or to explore George Town, the first settlement of Madras. Or with historian V Sriram who leads walks through George Town and Mount Road for Past Forward.

Kapaleeshwar temple in Mylapore, Chennai. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

If you have an extra day, drive up the East Coast Road. You could stop either at Covelong Point surf school for quick paddling lessons; or head further to Mahabalipuram to walk around beachside temples and monuments dating back to the Pallava Dynasty.

With another night to spare, drive further south to Pondicherry; and opt between a luxurious stay at the French Quarter or a more spiritual trip in Auroville.

Chennai High Court, in George Town, where began the first settlement of the city of Madras, near Fort St George, in 1640. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

Grab a bite

Begin your morning with a cup of authentic filter kaapi at any of these iconic establishments in virtually every neighbourhood — Vivekananda Coffee House in T Nagar, Mylai Coffee in Mylapore, Ratna Cafe in Triplicane, Old Madras Baking Company on TTK Road, Sangeetha in RA Puram, Madras Coffee House on Bazullah Road.

Sappadu, traditional meal on a banana leaf in Tamil Nadu. (Photo: Wikimedia Commons)

For good sappadu, i.e. a traditional Tamil meal on a banana leaf, head to the New Woodlands Hotel in Mylapore. Fresh fluffy idlis are to be found at nearby Rayar’s Cafe; as well as at the Ratna Cafe in Triplicane and the iconic Murugan idi shop in T Nagar. Nosh on plates of the original Chicken 65 at Buhari on Anna Salai — where you can also savour idiyappam biryani, egg parotta and masala fried fish.

Get your fill of spicy Chettinad cuisine at Amma Chettinad, run by late actor MGR’s personal chef. In Nungambakkam, try Velu Military Hotel, which has been around since 1955; Anjappar, whose seafood will set your senses ablaze; or the New Pattukkottai Kamatchi Mess in T Nagar, where the food is made entirely on wood fire.

For libations, head to Cheroot Malt & Cigar Lounge at the ITC Grand Chola for a solid negroni; the rooftop Koox in Rathna Nagar for great views; The Velveteen Rabbit for beer based cocktails like Spiced Ale, or Radio Room, for their deadly Smooth Criminal cocktail, both in RA Puram; or local favourite Off The Record in Kodambakkam.

For a taste of Chennai’s café culture, the ECR is dotted with outlets the spill out on the beach. Try Café Meraki in Neelangarai for a fusion menu or C-Salt at the Sheraton Grand.

For fine diners, Nungambakkam has more than a few options: Mustard blends French and Bengali flavours, while at Down Sterling, you’ll find the best steaks and pizza.

At ITC Grand Chola’s Avartana, nominated one of Asia’s 50 best restaurants in 2023, you’ll likely max out your credit card over a peerless feast of reinvented south Indian food — think Bloody Mary infused with Karnataka Bydagi chilli, pork belly roasted with Coorgi vinegar masala, and jasmine payasam.