The History of Boat Shoes
Renan Botelho
Senior Digital Editor
Linen shirts and tailored shorts are some of the essentials included in every man’s wardrobe during the hot weather season. However, no all-American summer outfit is complete without a pair of boat shoes.
The loafer style, also known as deck shoe and top sider, has been around since 1935. Often made out of soft leather or canvas, the boat shoe became a preppy-style staple through the decades, proving to be a comfortable footwear for summertime.
Here, you’ll discover the history of boat shoes, how to wear them and more curiosities about the iconic style.
What is the classic boat shoe?
The classic boat shoe has some standard features, including rubber soles with enhanced gripping properties, water-repellent and stainproof uppers made often of leather or canvas, a moccasin-like silhouette and thick leather laces.
Traditionally, boat shoes have brown leather uppers with three or two eyelets and white rubber soles with herringbone patterns carved into them.
The rubber soles are conceivably the main feature of a boat shoe. The soles help prevent slips and falls around wet floors.
When were boat shoes invented?
The story starts with a New Yorker named John F. Sipe. Although his profession is still up for debate — some believe Sipe worked in a slaughterhouse while others describe him as a sailor — the fact is that he would often slip on wet floors due to his job.
Looking for a solution for his slipping problem, Sipe decided to cut slits in the soles of his shoes. In 1923, he patented his idea. However, Sipe applied his invention to automobile tires and forgot about shoes.
The sailor and his dog
A decade after Sipe’s invention was patented, a sailor from Connecticut named Paul Sperry noticed that his dog had no problem walking across the ice on a cold day. Sperry discovered that the cracks on his dog’s paws created a herringbone-like pattern, enhancing his grip. Just like that, he decided to cut paw-like slits into the bottom of his rubber soles, creating the first boat shoe.
Sperry quickly learned that black-soled shoes could leave marks on boats’ decks. He then started working with white soles to minimize the problem. In 1935, Sperry launch the Top Sider shoe.
Sperry’s first clients were the members of the Cruising Club of America. In 1939, the U.S. War Department ordered Top Sider shoes for each one of its sailors, naming the style as one of the official shoes of the U.S. Navy.
In 1940, Sperry sold his business to the U.S. Rubber Company, which invested in marketing the Top Siders throughout the country. In 1946, the company released new styles of boat shoes.
In the 1960s, John F. Kennedy made the preppy-summer style popular. His New England-inspired wardrobe is still being reimagined until this day by different brands. JFK was also one of the first celebrities to sport Sperry’s shoes in public.
During that time, Californian surfers also began wearing canvas Sperry shoes to the beach. Later, in the 1980s, “The Official Preppy Handbook” written by Lisa Birnbach named Sperry’s boat shoes as an “icon of preppy style.”
In 1979, the U.S. Rubber Company sold Sperry to the Stride Rite Corporation. In 2007, Payless ShoeSource acquired Sperry and, in 2012, the brand was sold to Wolverine World Wide and Blum Capital Partners. In 2009, Sperry was named the Brand of the Year by FN.
Are boat shoes still cool?
Boat shoes were always in and out of fashion. Currently, they are having a comeback moment with many celebrities embracing the style — from Prince Harry and David Beckham to Ryan Reynolds and Andrew Garfield.
Joining the preppy’s revival in fashion, Sperry has invested more in collaborations, creating collections in partnership with Rowing Blazers, Brooks Brothers and singer John Legend.
Other brands are also famous for their boat shoe styles, such as Sebago, L.L. Bean, Eastland Shoe and Timberland.
In February, Italian luxury company Loro Piana opened a new factory to meet the “ever-increasing demand” for its footwear, particularly the nautical-inspired White Sole shoes.
How do you wear boat shoes in the summer?
You can style your boat shoes in many different ways. Here are some options for the summer.
- Top: Boat shoes are a perfect match for a navy-inspired outfit, which often includes a striped T-shirt with light colors. You can also add button-up shirts made of linen or light fabrics. During the summer, light colors are always recommended to help you with the heat.
- Bottom: Boat shoes go well with chino pants in neutral colors, such as cream, navy blue or khaki. The shoe style can also be easily paired with denim, whether you prefer shorts or pants, and linen pants.
- Accessories: To give your nautical-inspired look an extra touch, you can add aviator sunglasses and even an ascot tie that coordinates with the rest of your look.
About the Author:
Renan Botelho is the senior Digital Editor for Footwear News, reporting on the latest fashion trends and celebrity style. He received his Bachelor’s degree in Journalism from the Methodist University of São Paulo. He can be reached at rbotelho@footwearnews.com.
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