From being donned on a runway to ending up being piled up in a landfill, we delve deep into the hidden world of fast fashion and its staggering environmental and social impacts
Sainandan Iyer
APPAREL REALITY
Remember the most recent occasion that you bought a new piece of clothing for yourself? It could have been for your birthday, an auspicious occasion, on a vacation, or simply based on a latest fashion trend you came across. Now, have you ever wondered about the hidden stories woven into the fabric of these outfits? This is precisely explored in this piece.
However, rather than guilt-tripping the reader on how throwing away their ‘old’ clothes can cause environment harm, or lecturing them on the human cost behind producing such low cost garments in the developing world, this article seeks to illuminate some key facets of the fast fashion business that reflect the present reality of the apparel industry.
ALLURE OF AFFORDABILITY
In a world of ever-changing trends, the fashion industry has ushered in an era of fast fashion, enticing consumers with affordable and rapidly produced clothing. However, beneath the glitz and glamour lies a dark underbelly of environmental degradation, worker exploitation, and excessive waste. Thus, unravelling the global impact of the clothing industry is sought here, highlighting the hidden costs of fast fashion and calling for a more sustainable approach to dressing.
Fast fashion has revolutionised the clothing industry, transforming it into a high-speed, trend-driven machine. Global brands, from Shein and Zara to H&M and Uniqlo, have perfected the art of turning runway designs into mass-produced garments available at affordable prices. Fast fashion has reshaped consumer behaviour, fuelling a cycle of constant purchasing and disposing in pursuit of the latest trends.
One of the primary reasons fast fashion has gained such popularity is its affordability. The low price tags make it accessible to a wide range of consumers, allowing them to indulge in the thrill of buying new clothes frequently. However, the true cost of these inexpensive garments is hidden behind closed doors, from exploitative labour practices to environmental destruction.
THE THIRSTY COTTON
Cotton, a staple in the fashion industry, comes with a high environmental price. Its cultivation requires vast amounts of water, often in regions already experiencing water scarcity. Additionally, the heavy use of pesticides and chemical fertilisers pollutes water sources and poses health risks to both workers and nearby
communities.
Furthermore, synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon, and acrylic have surged in popularity due to their low cost and durability. However, their production relies on fossil fuel extraction and energy-intensive processes, contributing to greenhouse gas emissions and climate change. And, when these synthetic fabrics end up in landfills, they can take centuries to decompose, exacerbating the waste problem.
Hence, the fashion industry is a significant contributor to global carbon emissions. The production process, including textile manufacturing, dyeing, and finishing, emits harmful greenhouse gases. Furthermore, the transportation of garments from factories to stores, often across continents, further amplifies carbon footprints. Fast fashion’s demand for quick turnaround times intensifies these emissions, contributing to the climate crisis.
BEHIND THE SEAMS
Behind the glossy storefronts and glamorous runway shows lie tales of labour exploitation. In pursuit of maximising profits, many fast fashion brands outsource production to countries with lax labour regulations, including India, Bangladesh, Vietnam and China. This outsourcing often leads to the existence of sweatshops, where workers endure long hours, low wages, unsafe working conditions, and a lack of labour rights.
The global supply chain of such attires is complex and often opaque. From cotton farms to textile mills to garment factories, multiple intermediaries are involved. This convoluted system creates challenges in monitoring and ensuring fair labour practices throughout the supply chain. Workers at different stages of production face varying degrees of exploitation and vulnerability.
The exploitative labour practices in the fast fashion industry have far-reaching social consequences. Garment workers often receive meagre wages that fall below living standards, making it difficult to break free from the cycle of poverty. The relentless pace of production, coupled with low wages, leads to harsh working conditions and denies workers their basic human rights. Furthermore, the focus on cost-cutting measures discourages investment in worker safety and welfare, putting their lives at risk. The social impact of fast fashion extends beyond the factory walls, affecting communities and perpetuating gender inequality.
BRAND ACCOUNTABILITY
Amidst these challenges, worker empowerment and collective action have emerged as powerful tools for change. Organisations and unions are working to educate and empower garment workers, advocating for their rights, fair wages, and safe working conditions. Support from consumers, advocacy groups, and international initiatives can amplify their voices and encourage brands to prioritise ethical practices. Efforts to address labour exploitation in the fashion industry also involve legislative measures and regulations. Governments and international bodies are taking steps to enforce labour standards, improve working conditions, and hold brands accountable for their supply chain practices.
Examples of some positive changes in this regard include the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh signed in 2013 to improve workplace safety, following the Rana Plaza factory collapse which claimed the lives of over 1,000 garment workers; Fair Trade certifications that ensure workers receive fair wages and work under safe conditions; and the California Transparency in Supply Chains Act in 2010, that focussed on modern-day slavery and human trafficking from retailers’ direct supply chains. Thus, further legislation can play a crucial role in ensuring fair wages, safe working conditions, and transparency, while penalties and audits can deter brands from exploiting workers and encourage responsible practices.
MOUNTAINS OF WASTE
Fast fashion’s rapid production and consumer culture contribute to an alarming amount of textile waste. The allure of cheap and disposable clothing leads to a ‘throwaway’ mentality, where garments are discarded after minimal use. Landfills worldwide are inundated with textiles, with some estimates suggesting that the fashion industry produces over 92 million tonnes of waste annually.
While recycling is often touted as a solution, the reality is far more complicated. Textile recycling faces numerous challenges, such as the difficulty of separating different types of fibres and the lack of infrastructure to process and recycle garments on a large scale. Moreover, consumers’ lack of awareness and participation further hinder effective recycling
initiatives.
To combat the waste crisis, the fashion industry must embrace a circular economy approach. This involves designing garments for longevity, promoting repair and reuse, and creating innovative recycling techniques. By shifting from a linear: ‘take-make-dispose’, model to a more circular system, the industry can significantly reduce its environmental impact and minimise waste.
Many fashion brands are recognising the urgency to adopt sustainable practices. Innovations such as using organic and recycled materials, implementing cleaner dyeing and manufacturing processes, and investing in renewable energy sources are becoming more prevalent.
THREADS OF CHANGE
Consumers play a vital role in driving change within the fashion industry. By adopting a more mindful and conscious approach to their purchasing habits, individuals can demand transparency, ethical practices, and sustainable production. Choosing quality over quantity, supporting eco-friendly brands, and embracing second-hand and vintage fashion are all steps towards a more sustainable wardrobe.
The allure of fast fashion may be enticing, but the hidden costs it imposes on our planet and its people cannot be ignored. The clothing industry must undergo a transformative shift towards sustainability, encompassing responsible production, fair labour practices, and waste
reduction.
The rising trends of thrift stores promoting conscious consumerism, online platforms allowing buying and selling of ‘pre-loved’ clothes, and a general sense of awareness among urban consumers about sustainable fashion, are glimmers of hope that the ill effects of fast fashion can be curbed. Hence, we need to stitch together a fashionable future where style meets sustainability, and dressing consciously becomes the ultimate trendsetter’s statement.