Bramley review: ‘Michelin-star chef brings fine dining to Laois and I predict it won’t be long until the inspectors come calling’

Abbeyleix is one of those rare, handsome Irish towns and, with the newly opened Bramley, it now has a smart restaurant worthy of its wide main street. When I phone chef-owner Sam Moody a few days after my visit to check some details, he is delighted by the response he’s had from locals since opening last month. “They seem quite chuffed,” he says, “that there’s now a fine-dining restaurant with a tasting menu in the town, that food is being taken seriously.”