Row Wines review: ‘It’s hot, cold, salty and very good — this will be the dish everyone talks about’

You’re probably familiar with the Purchasing Managers’ Index and the Consumer Price Index, but what about the Dublin Gilda Index? The classic San Sebastián pintxo is a mouth-puckering mouthful on a stick, a match made in heaven between a manzanilla olive, an anchovy and a pickled green guindilla pepper. It’s thought to have originated in the Bar Casa Vallés, named for Rita Hayworth’s character in the 1946 movie Gilda, by reason of it being ‘verde, salado y picante’, which translates as ‘green, salty and spicy’, but also as ‘little pervert, witty and spicy’, just like the character Hayworth played. At Uno Mas (the first Dublin restaurant to introduce them), a gilda costs €4, while at the newly opened La Gordita off Camden Street, it’s €3.75. But at Row Wines, the new wine bar/restaurant from Marc and Conor Bereen, a pair costs €5 and each one packs a seriously spicy kick, which takes us by surprise. (Executive chef Dan Hannigan explains the on-brand decision: “We’re very much go big or go home when it comes to flavour.”)