Fashion among Malayali youth
THIRUVANANTHAPURAM: Malayali youths seem to be supersizing their wardrobes these days. Skinny denim wear and jeggings that trended two years ago have become things of the past, especially for the Gen Z crowd. Oversized styling is in. Walking around campus streets, malls, hangout spots, and metro stations, one can spot youngsters sporting jumbo clothes, exuding an air of cool in baggy fits and layered wear.
“This switch to oversized clothes is mainly out of comfort – a ‘free’ kind of style is what is preferred, irrespective of gender,” says Kochi-based freelance fashion stylist Asaniya Nazrin. “We are adapting the 90’s fashion, which was all about bright hues, loose fits, and loud patterns. These days, hot pink, neon green, yellow… some bling on the side, along with light-shaded coloured spectacles, complete the look.”
Oversized fits like jogger pants, sweatpants and cord-set pants paired with crop tops or bralette tops give a cool chic look, says Lakshmi Thampi, a fashion enthusiast and final-year student at the College of Engineering Trivandrum (CET).
“Mix and match is the new rule,” she adds.“I also switch my clothes with my brother’s, loose-fit wardrobes are wearable for both of us. T-shirts and ethnic print short-sleeve shirts paired with distressed jeans or shorts. Lighter shades of denim and oversized peppy T-shirts are their new good-to-go outfit mantra.”
The ‘boyfriend shirt’ — women wearing oversized men’s shirts — is another hot trend. Some button it up and some leave it open with a vest or T-shirt inside.
In Kochi, we bump into techies Neha Maria and Anita Antony, who rock the boyfriend shirt look. Anita has paired a boyfriend shirt with a hot pink T-shirt and high-waist denim, a messy hairdo, silver hoops, a nude-shade lipstick. Neha flaunts a casual-and-sporty look with a beige open shirt and white crop top, paired with high-waist denim, a sleek chain on the neck, and white sneakers.
Meanwhile, Haneen Zawiya, 13, seems to have taken the nonchalant look more seriously. She stands out from the rest with a bandana tied around her head. She has paired a sweatshirt with joggers and finished the look with a pair of crocs.“I do overlay mostly. I’m influenced mostly by western styles,” she says.
Walking by, a 21-year-old salesman, Afreed K, pulls off a versatile look with a bucket hat on. “Checked shirts, chain jeans, and a bucket hat is my favourite outfit. I style in a way that I’m comfortable with. If it’s western, then I prefer wearing full sleeves,” he says.
While floral prints paired with ripped jeans and tie-dye shirts are also here to stay, some folks prefer to style the oversized look in a more refined manner. Kochi native Pravil Vilson says he sticks to the ‘neat look’ – formal trousers paired with sweatshirts and a silver neckpiece. His friend, Palakkad native Binshad Basheer, has paired a velvety hoodie with jeans and a neckpiece. “Our dressing styles are inspired by the basketball and football cultures,” they say.
Streetwear, the iconic fashion of the hip-hop community, made a strong statement in the late 1970s. Though ‘streeture’ (street+culture) — encompassing elements of sportswear, punk, and Japanese street fashion — has gained global popularity — the southern side of India is embracing the style like never before.
Taking hip-hop fashion a notch higher in Kerala, a bunch of youngsters — John Jolly, Daniel Francis, Amith Vishnu and Anosh PE — have launched the online streetwear brand Wldwst.“Streetstyle is mostly gender fluid in nature and it is becoming mainstream,” says Daniel, who is the brand’s creative head. “Malayalam film Thallumala is an example. A T-shirt, bucket hat, baggy jeans, sneakers, hoodies with tees within… all of these aren’t confined to any gender.”Popular picks from the late 90s and classic retro styling are also in vogue these days. Cargos and carpenter pants, for instance, have made a comeback.
“Initially used by carpenters and construction workers in the West, these were ideal to keep their tools accessible. They have a casual, rugged look,” says Daniel. “Moreover, youngsters are also styling their dad’s old pants; some of these styles are also seen in even formal workspaces in Kerala.”Though retro is emerging, in street-style fashion, big prints on tees are seldom seen. “Solid colours are preferred mostly. And prints chosen are minimal, either phrases like ‘Let’s get it’ or any slang word,” adds Daniel.
Not that shirts are out. Boxy-fit shirts and flannel checks paired with carpenter pants are trending. Also, more than turtle necks, mock necks fit well in street style. A timeless streetwear favourite, denim is nowadays used as ‘shackets’. “It is a combination of shirt and jacket,” says Daniel.
Smart casuals
Most IT companies opt for the ‘smart casuals’ dress code. At Technopark in Thiruvananthapuram, techie and fashion influencer Riyas Abdulrahim says earlier casuals were meant for only Fridays.“Nowadays, however, formals are worn only for client meetings or official events. Otherwise, it’s floral shirts, denim, loose pants and T-shirts… florals are not just vacation wear anymore,” he says.“For women, mom jeans, wide-leg pants and skinny jeans with T-shirts and shirts are worn instead of kurtis and leggings.”
Traditional twist
Modern outfits are being clubbed with a dash of traditional look nowadays. “Indian prints such as Ajarak, Batik and Bandhani combined in modern outfits including camisole tops in cotton fabric paired with pants is comfort wear, especially during summertime. Jhumka earrings complete the indo-western style,” says Lakshmi.
When Indian prints were commonly found in kurti tops, the prints have taken over sleeveless tops and even men’s shirts. Raj Baiju, owner and founder of Thiruvananthapuram-based designer boutique Southloom.com, says the new shopping slogan is ‘comfort with convenience’.
“Earlier menswear was about checks and paisley prints, which were European designs. Now people prefer prints, including hand block prints and floral patterns, which were earlier considered feminine. In dhoti the bandhaini (tie-dye style) dhothis are also trending,” he says.
Go green
It has often been flagged that fast fashion takes a toll on the environment. To buck the trend, two ad-makers Jimmy Varghese and Hazarika Mayukh started the homegrown brand ‘Use-less’. The brand’s products are made of 70% recycled cotton and 30% polyester from PET bottles.
“The plastic bottles are recycled into yarn. Since we use recycled cotton, one ‘Use-less’ T-shirt saves nearly 1,700 litres of water,” explains Jimmy. Wldwst, meanwhile, has been repurposing floral waste, making dye out of them. “The flowers that are thrown away after festivals are our primary sources. They are dried and the dye is extracted using steam.”
Thrift away!
Thrift stores are gradually gaining popularity among Keralites. Gopika Vijayan, who runs the online thrift store ‘Green Wardrobe’, says: “The store has the pre-used and pre-loved products — trendy clothes, vintage outfits and so on. Instead of hoarding or discarding unwanted clothes, people can either sell or donate them to a thrift store,” says Gopika. “I take 30% as revenue and the rest goes to the one who gives the items.”Architecture student at CET and self-taught designer Nanma Zakkeer says thrifting culture is picking up among youth. “Gone are the days when one was ashamed to sport used clothes; this is beneficial for college students like us,” says.
Gender-fluid fashion
Streetstyle wear isn’t the only gender-fluid fashion out there. Blazers and suits with vests and mini-skirts are trending among women who like power dressing. And men these days are going for crop tops. One of them says he would love to try some “funky kaftans”. “Gender-fluid clothing helps one break free from the prejudices imposed by society.
The style can help people express themselves and be their true selves,” says fashion designer Aswathy Sethunath. Notably, a recent photoshoot done by fashion photographer Nikhila M Santhoshlal explored the idea of gender fluidity in fashion. Men in saree, crop top, coat and skirt.
“The shoot was a step towards dismantling the notion of toxic masculinity,” says Nikhila. Model Sayed Shahdaz Bin Sethi says he loves donning skirts as they boost his confidence. “I like trying out new things and setting trends, regardless of how people react to it,” he says.
-With inputs from Meeval Ginet, Namitha Benny, Gargi Prasannan
