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HYDERABAD: The aroma of this common dish is like a symphony of scents, with each ingredient adding its distinct and captivating note to the mix. It begins with the rich, savoury whiff of the butter as it melts in a vast pan, intermixed with the sweet tones of the finely chopped onions, becoming more intense as they cook, like a reminder of the wisdom and habits of a secret system of a chef, invisible and yet ever-present. Then the sharp, pungent odour of the ginger-garlic paste and a five-finger pinch of garam masala is like a chorus of exotic spices, adding depth and complexity.

Before it transcends into the acidic depths of the chopped tomatoes, they cook down and release their juices, enveloping all the vegetables, each with a distinct note. It has changed, it has transformed into a Bhaji, ready to be served with Pav at Sindhi Colony, from a nameless chat point. Some also add the tangy, citrusy touch of the amchur powder. Everything changes when the chef lays fresh, a herbal bouquet of chopped coriander leaves like a refreshing breeze, from the vapour of steaming hot bhaji.

A similar pleasure can be felt at the nearby Dimmy Pan Shop which is heady with many flavours of betel leaves. It’s a tad bit bitter and slightly minty, with a hint of earthy and herbaceous notes when combined with the Gulkand of rose petals. It adds a unique and delicate fragrance to the mixture that is also of desiccated coconut and honey-like sweetness. Like a cherry on the pie, preserved cherry adds a sweet, tangy, and fruity scent to the mixture and flavour of the pan.

“The distinct aroma of kebabs on coal from around Bade Miyan in Tank Bund, or the essence of vanilla from any Naturals Ice Cream outlet, envelops the whole stretch,” says Ashish Choudhary, an enthusiastic foodie on Twitter. He added, “Any Chinese bandi has a very easily recognizable eggy aroma that can instantly draw one to it.”

The whiff of samosas and jalebi frying in the kitchen at Tewari’s sweet store in Khairatabad is strong and magical when intertwined with the oud of the incense sticks, it is very distinct from the confectionery.

At a streetside fish fry stall, there is a blend of warm, earthy notes of turmeric powder and red chilli powder, like a bold and daring adventure intertwined with the musk of fish marinated. When fried, the sizzling pan oozes an exotic mixture of savoury and sweet, with hints of garlic and herbs mingling with the natural odour of the fish as it cooks. The smells become more drastic until it is the complex scent of the sea when served with a few drops of lemon juice and onion.

Distinct but equally provocative is the scent of Osmania Biscuit and other bakery products seeping out of Karachi Bakery at Osman Gunj. “No other branch of the bakery has such a sweet smell to offer. I remember it very distinctly. As for years, I used to go there with my cousin sharp at 4 pm when the bread is fresh out of the oven,” said Mahesh Kumar Shukla, a resident of Basheerbagh who designs car decor but is passionate about bread.

“Some eateries use a different kind of ambience, they focus on interiors which are hard to discern, pleasing to the eyes, but nothing like the smell of their dish being prepared, it is something modern eateries lost somewhere in the transition and shall be learned from traditional spaces, that knew, aroma attracts customers,” said restauranter Zakir Adeeb who owns Hilton in Khairatabad, that exudes a distinct smell of Biryani.