Budget travel | Sri Lanka: Sojourn through the emerald isle

The jewel in the Indian Ocean, Sri Lanka, is a mix of several things but it is its overriding sense of peace and breathtaking beauty that are striking and can be covered well under Rs 3 lakh.

Anita Rao Kashi
December 18, 2022 / 07:04 PM IST

Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, Rambukkana, Sri Lanka. (Photo: Rajiv Perera via Unsplash)

Just off India’s coast, tear-drop shaped Sri Lanka is a jewelled paradise. Lush landscape, stunning coastline and beaches, beautiful temples and monuments, and food that sends the taste buds on overdrive — the island is truly a treat for the senses. Predictably, it has earned several epithets but none sits more aptly than emerald isle. On the face of it, it might seem like the island offers too many options, and that’s true. It may take several visits to get a true sense of the island country, but there’s always a sense of slowing down and soaking in tranquility. There’s plenty to fit into a week that can be light on the pocket at the same time.

What to see

Colombo

Colombo. (Photo: Jalitha Hewage via Unsplash) Colombo. (Photo: Jalitha Hewage via Unsplash)

The country’s capital is the obvious first choice. It is relatively glitzy with wide open streets. There are casinos, shopping centres and performances to take in. But it is also okay to use Colombo to enter and exit and give the city a miss entirely.

Galle

At the Galle Dutch Fort. (Photo: Kanchana Amilani via Unsplash) At the Galle Dutch Fort. (Photo: Kanchana Amilani via Unsplash)

At the Galle Dutch Fort. (Photo: Kanchana Amilani via Unsplash)Almost at the Southern tip of Sri Lanka, it has a distinct French-Portuguese flavour with a sprawling 16th century fort filled with French-flavoured structures. You can wander for hours on the streets surrounding the fort and pop into lovely cafes for a break.

Kandy

By far the most prominent Buddhist site, this is where the tooth relic of the Buddha is preserved in a temple. A pretty lake in the centre of town is ideal for evening walks.

Kandy, Sri Lanka. (Photo via Umsplash) Kandy, Sri Lanka. (Photo via Umsplash)

Bentota

Galapatha Rajamaha Viharaya ancient Buddhist temple, Bentota. (Photo: Rathna Deepaya via Unsplash) Galapatha Rajamaha Viharaya ancient Buddhist temple, Bentota. (Photo: Rathna Deepaya via Unsplash)

Turquoise waters of the Indian ocean meet golden sands to form some of the best beaches. Less crowded is Induruwa further down the coast, with secluded Airbnb stays that are way better than hotels.

Anuradhapura

Isurumuni Rajamaha Viharaya monastery, Anuradhapur. (Photo: Yashi El via Unsplash) Isurumuni Rajamaha Viharaya monastery, Anuradhapura. (Photo: Yashi El via Unsplash)

Located on the banks of the river Malwathu, the city is known for its UNESCO world heritage site of Buddhist monuments and Sinhala heritage.

Nuwara Eliya

Nuwara Eliya. (Photo: Anton Lecock via Unsplash) Nuwara Eliya. (Photo: Anton Lecock via Unsplash)

Filled with tea plantations, rolling hills and valleys, and lovely climate, Nuwara Eliya has a distinct colonial flavour with its tile-roof bungalows and century old buildings.

Other sites: Dambulla, Pollannaruwa, Trincomalee, Jaffna, among others.

What to do

Climb Sigiriya

A dramatic rock rising amid flat plans, climbing Sigiriya is a bit of an effort. But the ancient colourful murals and the breathtaking sights from the table top peak are well worth the effort.

Encounter marine life

There are many locations around the island for snorkelling, scuba diving or even a glass-bottom boat ride, like at Hikkaduwa, to see the island’s rich and diverse marine life.

Cruise

Hire a tiny boat to go cruising amidst the dense mangroves where you can catch glimpse of birds and reptiles.

Spotting wildlife

Go on a safari in Yala or Kaudulla National Park to look at the incredible foliage and try to spot leopards and other wildlife.

Whale chasing

Dondra Head, the bottom tip of the island, is the best place to watch blue whales from January to April as they head west, chomping on marine life that thrive in the seawaters.

What to eat

Sri Lankan food will likely seem familiar to the Indian palate, especially South Indian since rice is the staple grain. But the cuisine also relies on fiery spices, fresh herbs and ingredients and flavourful combinations, and generous use of coconut. Intense curries — vegetable, fish, and chicken — are accompanied by rice. Sambol, a fiery wet or dry paste, using different combination of ingredients is a common condiment.  Other dishes to try include kiribath (rice cooked in salted coconut milk), hoppers and string hoppers (can be had both for breakfast and meals), roti, lamprais (a combo dish of rice, dry curry, chicken, egg, eggplant wrapped in banana leaf and baked). Sri Lankan cuisine has several sweets such as dodol (a kind of jelly), watalappam (steamed pudding with milk, jiggery and eggs), and kevum (treacle and rice flour cake). Eating local is quite inexpensive, and it is easy to have a meal at under Rs 500; breakfast dishes cost even less.

Where to stay

Along the coast, South of Colombo, are Sri Lanka’s most stunning hotels and resorts with enviable views of the sea. But scattered between them are a host of budget hotels and Airbnb accommodation options that can range from as little as Rs 1500 per night. If travelling in a group, it is better to hire an entire house. In some areas, such as Nuwara Eliya, colonial bungalows are also available for groups and can be hired for Rs 5000 per night.

Good to know

Flights: Can be as cheap as Rs 20000 for return tickets on carriers like Indigo.

Visa: Should be obtained online before travel and costs $30.

Currency: One Indian rupee gets approximately 4.4 Sri Lankan rupees (LKR).

Local transport: Opt for tuk-tuks which are cheaper, especially if hired for the day (approx. Rs 600-800). While travelling between cities, take trains where possible, especially the scenic routes, but book in advance.
Anita Rao Kashi is an independent travel and lifestyle writer. Anita is on Instagram @anitaraokashi
Tags: #Budget travel #MC Travel Special #Sri Lanka #Travel
first published: Dec 18, 2022 06:46 pm