Mughal inspirations

HYDERABAD: The love for fashion and art ran deep in her family and by following the footsteps of her mother, Ankita Lath, a NIFT graduate and well-known celebrity designer launched her own line, “Ankita Lath” in the fashion industry. She has dressed the likes of actors Anupam Kher and Dev Adhikari. Ankita’s adventure began in seventh grade, and since then she has become interested in fabrics and art using seasoned designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Yohji Yamamoto, Dolce & Gabbana, and Alexander McQueen as inspiration. Each of her designs has a unique way of expressing art via fabrics and her debut menswear collection is called Atoor, which honours Mughal architecture and its beauty. In Urdu, the word ‘Atoor’ also refers to architectural constructions that were influenced by India’s historic palaces and forts, with their magnificent carvings on their gates.

Talking about the inspiration behind the collection, Ankita says, “Adventure has been so far fascinating to me, and my career began when I developed a passion for fashion in seventh grade. My mother, who had her own business, taught me the ropes, served as my inspiration.

Learning was important to me, so I decided to work with a few seasoned designers to better understand work cultures, expose myself to different embroidery styles. It has been challenging to launch a new label, but I have embraced the challenges since I am hoping that my designs and concepts will be well received.”

Further explaining about the colours and silhouettes one can expect from the collection, the designer says, “I incorporated vibrant prints with Mughal architecture, art, and literature to capture the zeitgeist of the time. I always want the collection’s hues to contrast with the natural world with the abstract one by being both vibrant and earthy. Hues like ochre, sienna, and umber paired with the silhouettes of sherwanis, power suits, and functional separates constitutes the collection.

My roots are in Indian clothing, both in terms of training and cultural experience. As I believe in analysing and experimenting, everything from developing designs to selecting materials should be in one place, and the most exciting part is choosing collection themes, where you must develop relevant designs depending on seasons and trends. It’s always difficult when it comes to menswear and stuff like going on a small shuttle while designing for me.”

Elaborating about Hyderabad as a fashion market, Ankita feels that the city has a sizable and expansive fashion market that continues to grow every year. “People keep up with current fashion trends. As consumers were more willing to experiment with different styles and fashions over time, the city’s fashion industry witnessed a considerable transition. There was a huge increase in the number of locally made stores as a result. As opposed to the top designers, these boutiques place a stronger emphasis on promoting tradition and style,” she says.

In contrast to her Atoor collection, Ankita’s next collection is centered around Indian fabrics and the enduring beauty they hold. “One can expect a brilliant colour scheme used to weave a bandhani print that tells a structured narrative using elements drawn from both the natural and abstract worlds. Geometric and floral designs telling a fascinating story that connects the present period with the glory years of the past. Tonal needlework that complements the print and gives the outfit some edge,” she concludes.