By: Kamal Barua
This is the story about the peninsular region of Gujarat, where a train was carrying us for 3000 km for four days through the gulf of Sorath or Kathiawar. While I was a little worried about our one-year-old toddler as we moved our luggage for a transfer posting at Air Force Station Jamnagar in 2004. Being the only passengers at AC2 coach to alight from the Dwaraka Express, I was under the misapprehension of running late but the train surprisingly was on time. Additionally, I was overwhelmed with passengers’ amenities at the platform.
As I stepped out of the station, I was taken aback by the illuminated midnight street lights, broad axial roads, and wide squares. During my 4 years tenure, we came across the jewel of Khathiyawad – the land of Kathis, a Rajput tribe that has a connection with Jam Saheb Ranjigsinhji, who was once all-time greats of cricket in England. He ruled (1909-1932) the historical 444 years old princely state of Saurashtra ‘Nawanagar’ and gave a fresh outlook to the capital Jamnagar. The city since underwent a transformation with the help of Sir Edward Lutyens, the architect of New Delhi.
On Sundays, people crowd near Tower Palace, which is a must-visit location at Lakhota Lake. The palace is a symbol of humanitarian relief during the severe drought in 1834-1846 which has been now converted into a museum showcasing artifacts and art pieces of the 9th-18th century.
Established by Jam Raval in 1540 AD, the descendant of Jam Halla, who is also considered to be one of the heirs of Lord Krishna, the whole area is rich in Rajput architecture. Darbargadh Palace is an exquisite design of a mix of Rajput and European styles of ornate pillars, decorated mirrors, sculptures, and monuments. The five-storied monument Bhujiyo Kotho located on the bank of the Lakhota Lake is believed to have been built to provide protection and act as a watchtower against enemies. Visitors are provided a panoramic view of the city from the water storage tank that is carved like a peacock on the top of the tower.
The city is dotted with ancient temples. The four marbles of Vardhman Shah’s, Raisi Shah’s, Sheth’s and Vasupujya Swami’s Jain temple attract thousands of devotees in the evening. We were amazed to discover that the chanting of ‘Ram Dhun’ at Bala Hanuman Temple is listed in the Guinness book of world records for the continuous rhythmic singing since August 1, 1964.
All in all, Jamnagar is Gujarat‘s lesser-known gems that were built around the Lakhota Lake and its wealth came from a pearl fishery. The coral reef island of Pirotan is the only marine sanctuary of India, where one can watch the fascinating underwater world of corals without having to dive down into the water when the tide ebbs.
Until recently manufacturing brass utensils were the biggest profession. However, Brass City is booming today not because of the metal but rather the huge oil refinery owned by Reliance Petroleum. It has got sea for Indian Navy and strong Air Base including Army due to its strategic location and proximity to Pakistan. The booming economy of Jamnagar has its sweet truth about salt cultivation. Garba-Dandiya on the land of sand dunes has reflected Gujarat’s culture for ages now. Jamnagar is also famous for its Bandhani Fabric. It’s a type of tie-dye textile decorated by plucking the cloth with the fingernails into many tiny bindings that form a figurative design. Its people are indigenous and against all the odds, it won’t disappoint outsiders from all walks of life. Jamnagar is one of my treasured memories, where I travelled and endured sacrifices but never did face any hassle.
Come this Independence Day, the sartorial choice of turban from our Prime Minister deserves special mention. Be it on coloured attire of Jodhpuri to Rajasthani, the Bandhani fabric of Jamnagar has caught special attention and place in our hearts.