Microdosing could soon become the default way we use skincare products

After all, when it comes to high-powered active ingredients, too much of a good thing is a real possibility

skincare skin tips microdosing serum moisturiser active ingredients
Kay Sukumar

The skincare revolution of recent times has resulted in everything from complex acids to potent active ingredients placed over the counter within the reach of the everyday skincare enthusiasts. However, the collateral damage from spoon-feeding your skin multiple active ingredients at the same time in high concentrations can result in redness, irritation and sudden, unexplained breakouts. If that defeats the purpose of your diligent skincare efforts, allow microdosing to play referee by negating the side-effects of multiple active ingredients and monitoring its dosage to only allow your skin as much as it can take. Ahead, a detailed guide on how and why to introduce microdosing to your skincare routine and which ingredients to begin with.

What is skincare microdosing and why do we need it?

Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder of Yavana Aesthetics Clinic, believes that more isn’t always merrier in skincare. “Anything used in excess is not good, and the same principle applies to your skincare. Over the past few years, we have observed an increase in skincare actives, such as retinol, vitamin C and AHAs/BHAs, which have become easily available over the counter in higher concentrations. The use of multiple actives in the same day over a period of time can lead to skin changes, known as irritant or allergic contact dermatitis,” she explains. The fallout of consistently feeding your skin too many active ingredients can result in redness, peeling, itching, burning, dry flaky skin and breakouts. Over time, it can lead to damage to the skin barrier which causes skin sensitivity.

This is where skincare microdosing comes in, as a saviour for stressed skin. However, the concept isn’t unique to the world of skincare—with its roots in the pharmaceutical industry, microdosing has since found popularity in the form of baby Botox for a more natural appearance. And now, it has come for the world of skincare. Dr Agarwal adds, “The concept of microdosing is often practised in medicine for maximising the benefits of drugs without adverse effects. Similarly, microdosing in skincare involves introducing small (micro) quantities (dose) of skincare products with lower concentrations to your everyday routine to gradually give the skin time to adapt to it and start showing results.”

Should you try skincare microdosing?

The payoff for making the switch is manifested in sustained results over a long period of time as opposed to immediate, one-time effect. If you’d like to get in on the former, Dr Agarwal would like you to know that everyone is an ideal candidate for it. She says, “There is no one-size-fits-all rule but the less-is-more motto is applicable to anyone using skincare. Microdosing helps the skin become less irritated, reactive and more stable. The benefits of the active ingredient you are using will be even more prominent in the long run, leading to healthy, glowing skin. While everyone is welcome to avail the benefits of microdosing, it should definitely be mandatory for dry and sensitive skin types.”

How to opt for skincare microdosing in your routine

For those looking to maximise the impact of their skincare regimen in the long haul, Dr Agarwal recommends opting for microdosing when introducing any new active ingredients to the everyday routine. “This will prevent the skin from getting overwhelmed by the sudden onslaught of multiple, highly concentrated actives,” she explains.

As a rule of thumb, you will want to choose lower percentages of active ingredients when opting for microdosing. “For instance, it is advisable to opt for products with lower concentration of retinol between 0.1 per cent to 0.3 per cent, around 0.10 per cent of Vitamin C and alpha hydroxy acids between 0.5 to 0.10 per cent. You’ll also find that newer formulations offer slow release and liposomal delivery mechanisms which means that the ingredients are released gradually in the skin throughout the day, instead of immediately upon application. This makes it easier for even sensitive skin to enjoy the actives without facing irritation,” explains the Mumbai-based dermatologist.

For those beginning with microdosing, she recommends introducing a lower concentration of actives into the routine once or twice every week, depending on the skin type and then graduating to daily application, depending on the response of the skin. As a general rule, it is advisable to avoid combined use of multiple actives at the same time. For instance, using Vitamin C in the morning and then adding either retinol or AHA in the night will prove to be more beneficial for the skin.

The ideal ingredients for skincare microdosing

The primary role of microdosing is to ensure that active ingredients do not overwhelm the skin, and some ingredients could benefit from this method more than others. Dr Agarwal says, “The ideal ingredients for this technique are those that are acidic or have the potential to cause skin irritation, such as retinol, Vitamin C and alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic, mandelic and lactic acid. In certain cases, even a beta hydroxy acid, such as salicylic acid when used in a higher percentage or combined with AHA, can lead to skin irritation.”

Less is more can only ever lead to good things in skincare, but the only exception to the rule is to not keep the good guys from doing their job: sunscreens and moisturisers. “On the contrary, the more frequently and steadily that you apply these products, the better protected your skin barrier is and the benefits of other active ingredients becomes amplified as well,” she surmises.