How millennial brides and jewellery brands are modernising the mangalsutra

When my best friend showed me her mangalsutra, post her wedding, I was expecting to see something that resembled the traditional design but what I saw instead completely reinvented any notion of what this piece of jewellery should look like. 

There are a few things you should know about my friend. Apart from having impeccable taste, her whole life has been inspired by the meeting of different worlds: she’s the perfect blend of East meets West, old and new. She’s also one of the most stylish girls I know, a master at taking a concept and making it her own. So why wouldn’t that same ethos apply here?

The idea of modernising the mangalsutra is no new trend. In fact, what we think of as the traditional mangalsutra is a refashioned version of the initial concept, a sacred yellow thread used to symbolise love and protection, a marker of the married woman, used as early as the 6th century AD in South India.

The departure from yellow thread to what we refer to as the mangalsutra today was probably the most drastic leap in design from its primary form. But since then, most interpretations we’ve seen still adhere to what has become known as customary design parameters—signature black beads with a central focal point.

There are several explanations as to why brides may be hesitant to reinvent the wheel when it comes to mangalsutras. Some are also resistant to wearing a symbol that has often been associated with patriarchy, while others argue that the neo-mangalsutra, as worn by the modern bride, is more a symbol of a union, just like the eternity band. 

My friend focused on just that, for her the mangalsutra, was a nod to her Indian heritage, while also channelling her and her partner’s interpretation of love and protection. To her, it needed to represent the union of two souls.

After doing thorough research, she commissioned New York-based jewellery brand CVC Stones to bring her dream mangalsutra to life. The end result was a simple gold chain with two black pebbles, one that she picked up on a memorable trip to Japan with her now-husband, the other selected from the brand’s own collection of organic stones, which she had set with seven diamonds, each representing one of the vows she had her husband made to each other. It's a piece that immediately intrigues anyone that sees it and is versatile enough to wear with jeans and a T-shirt as well as a sari.

So what’s driving modern mangalsutra wearers to be more adventurous and break free from conventional design? Over the years, we have seen a change in consumer behaviour when it comes to purchasing fine jewellery. As a result of greater economic empowerment, the female self-purchaser is looking for pieces that fit her day-to-day lifestyle. She looks at wearing a mangalsutra as an addition to her jewellery repertoire, not just as a piece to be stowed away in her jewellery box.

Additionally, the millennial bride, more than any other bride before her, has an increased amount of inspiration and exposure to brands all over the world. What’s accessible becomes acceptable. This has allowed, like many times in the past when it came to fashion, for a cross-cultural blending of ideas and design concepts.

But the true force driving this shift is the need to be one’s most authentic self and share it with the world. Rather than wearing a piece simply to represent marital status, women are looking for more meaning in their purchases, something they can share a story about and which represents them. Symbolism and meaning have become as important as beauty and craftsmanship.

Here are some guiding questions you should be asking yourself: how traditional are you? Is it important that your mangalsutra 'looks' like a mangalsutra? What about this tradition speaks to you? What doesn’t? How do you wear your jewellery? Do you want to layer pieces? Do you want something long or short, statement or minimal? What metal colour suits you?

But mostly, what do you want this piece to represent? You can go as literal or figurative as you like. Think Sonam Kapoor Ahuja incorporating her zodiac sign as well as that of her husband’s into her mangalsutra.

When you wear a piece that reflects your own distinct personality, that speaks directly to you, I guarantee you’ll want to wear that piece all the time.

Also read:

Priyanka Chopra celebrates Karva Chauth 2020 with Nick Jonas in a red ruffled sari and mangalsutra

8 new mangalsutra designs that millennial brides need to bookmark

11 gold jewellery sets to inspire your wedding trousseau buys