A new line of skincare products may develop from this science and treat aging skin

I have just completed the third edition of my textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology” (McGraw Hill), which will come out in late 2021.

While reviewing the latest science in skincare, I learned of an interesting new anti-aging strategy that could be the next big news in skin aging.

In the future, we may see skincare products designed to control the autophagy, or cell cleansing, process, which plays an important role in skin aging and vitality.

What is autophagy, and how does it slow aging?

Autophagy (from the Ancient Greek meaning “self-devouring” or “eating oneself”) is a natural cell process that degrades or recycles dysfunctional cells.

The autophagy process takes cellular “garbage” and moves it into the “garbage disposal” of the cell, known as the lysosome. Enzymes in the lysosome break down the cellular junk and recycle the components.

An exciting development in the science of aging is that autophagy has been shown to slow the rate of aging.

As we age, our cells have a harder time conducting the autophagy process. When autophagy is blocked, there is an increased amount of destructive or non-functioning cells that remain within our bodies.

Imagine what would happen to your house if you never took the garbage out — garbage would start to pile up, smell and decompose until your house was no longer inhabitable. The same can happen within our cells — buildup of junk in the cells leads to cellular dysfunction and aging.

How to increase autophagy to decrease aging

This is the trillion-dollar question for which we do not yet have a full answer. However, this is what we do know:

▪ Autophagy is subject to circadian rhythms (sleep patterns).

▪ Autophagy increases in nutrient starvation.

▪ Autophagy is reduced in older skin cells.

Studies have shown that a protein called sirtuin increases autophagy. Sirtuin is increased with nutrient starvation and is believed to be responsible for the fact that mice live longer when they consume fewer calories.

So far, we know that resveratrol and melatonin increase autophagy by affecting the sirtuin/autophagy pathways and thus can improve signs of skin aging.

As you can imagine, many studies are looking at how to control autophagy, especially in the engine of the cell known as the mitochondria. We know that mitochondria play a critical role in skin aging, and making mitochondria work better is the key to youthful skin.

What are the best anti-aging skincare ingredients?

Some of the best anti-aging skincare ingredients work by protecting mitochondria. These include antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E and coenzyme Q10 (CQ10).

These ingredients and other antioxidants help the mitochondria increase energy production. That increased energy is then used by various skin cells to produce collagen, hyaluronic acid and other important components of your skin.

Other proven ingredients to slow skin aging include retinoids and sunscreen. As mentioned earlier, resveratrol and melatonin may also help to slow skin aging by affecting the autophagy pathway.

To stay in the know about the latest skincare research and ingredients, follow Baumann Cosmetic on YouTube or @BaumannCosmetic on Instagram or Facebook.