The New European Tour Is Best by Bike

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Forget buses, cars, and trains. This summer explore these traditionally languid vacation spots using two wheels—and work up a sweat at the same time. 

Lake Como, Italy

The punishing Colma di Sormano is part of a 42-mile loop that begins just beyond the terrazzo-floored lobby of the Hotel Villa Flori on the lake’s southeastern shore. The dizzying climb, with 24% pitches, features prominently in the annual Giro di Lombardia race, so tackle it with a rider from ComoLagoBike, whose lead guide is the lauded ex-pro, Alberto Elli.

Stay: Most of the 53 rooms at Flori—a 19th century wedding gift from a nobleman to his daughter—have lake views from private balconies. But the vistas are even better from the rooftop spa and the cedar-flanked garden, where you can carbo-load on Belgian waffles for breakfast.

Treat yourself: The chilled Japanese whisky with jasmine tea at the hotel Vista Palazzo’s Infinity Bar is a highlight on a globally inspired menu. It’s all but guaranteed to dull any pain lingering in your legs.

Mallorca, Spain

The spectacular, 6-mile Sa Calobra—where Sir Bradley Wiggins trained before winning the 2012 Tour de France—has more switchbacks than the notoriously difficult Alpe d’Huez.

Stay: The capital city of Palma has as many excellent bike shops as it does cafes and tapas bars, but the bougainvillea-covered La Residencia—a Belmond hotel with stone architecture, terraced pools, and rugged backdrop—puts guests in the heart of the island’s best riding.

Treat yourself: Tack an additional 20 miles onto your ride by scaling the Coll de Soller. Ca’n Topa, a restaurant perched at the summit, is where local riders gather for double ristrettos and orange-infused cake.

Gordes, France

High above the lavender fields of the Luberon Valley looms Mont Ventoux, one of the kingmaking climbs in the Tour de France. Known locally as “the Giant of Provence,” it has three roads leading to the top; taking the 13-mile, 5,000-foot ascent from Bédoin will earn you the most bragging rights.

Stay: With whitewashed houses and cobblestone streets, hilltop Gordes is one of Provence’s prettiest towns. It’s home to Airelles Gordes La Bastide, an 18th century cliffside residence-turned-retreat with antique-appointed guest rooms and a 17,000-square-foot Sisley spa.

Treat yourself: Grégory Mirer, a Parisian transplant, conjures simple but spectacular dishes at the Michelin-starred Hotel les Bories & Spa—think leg of lamb with candied eggplant and fresh herbs from his garden.

Kotor, Montenegro

The panoramas get increasingly dramatic as you wind up Kotor Serpentine, a one-lane road that slithers along the slopes in a tight series of 25 hairpins as it gains almost 3,000 feet of elevation.

Stay: The One&Only Portonovi recently opened on the breathtaking Bay of Kotor, where rugged mountains crash into a sapphire shore. Roam the resort’s 60 seaside acres, hit its five pools, or take in all the Mediterranean splendor from its floor-to-ceiling windows.

Treat yourself: Whether you continue riding to Lovcen National Park, which has a mausoleum atop the area’s tallest massif, or turn around for a white-knuckle descent, plan a pit stop at the mountainside restaurant Nevjesta Jadrana. Its Njeguski prsut—Montenegrin prosciutto—is smoked with beechwood and owes its unique salinity to the sea breezes that waft through the alpine air.

Tinos, Greece

Thanks to its vast network of dirt roads, wind-strafed Tinos is best explored by gravel bike. Take the 6-mile path up Mount Tsiknias, which claims steep ramps and a craggy peak that reliably rises out of the low cloud cover.

Stay: In-the-know Athenians unplug on this charming and not-so-touristy island 15 minutes north of Mykonos. Sleep at the strikingly minimal Infinity View Tinos, where many of the 16 suites, piled like sugar cubes above the coast, afford views of the Aegean from the privacy of your own plunge pool.

Treat yourself: Head to boulder-strewn Livada Beach for a brisk dip in the island’s clearest waters. There the fuss-free boardwalk taverna Nikos Darmis (no website) serves a protein-restoring froutalia omelet with wild artichoke, an heirloom delicacy grown in the island’s mineral-rich soil.

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