By: Kamal Baruah

Life could be more adventurous if you’re brave enough to face challenges. He took a venturesome approach to an interior settlement of the hills of Dima Hasao (Dimasa Hills), then NC Hills, while he was serving as Additional Deputy Commissioner. It was ‘Semkhor’, the warrior village; it had once guarded the erstwhile Dimasa Kingdom with all its might from invaders and Naga head-hunters. The land of undiscovered mystery might have haunted him to sightsee around the natural habitat. The other day he was talking with his associates when they looked really surprised with his idea of visiting 400 years old hamlet that cries for development. He wished to make it something unusual and informed the Deputy Commissioner about his plan.

Three bags full of rice, dal and salt were readied for loading. He was surprised at the arrival of two PSOs even though he stepped up to go without them. The first and only original inhabitant tribe of Assam, Dimasa are called the sons of mighty river. They were the rulers of Assam, prior to the advent of the Ahoms, since 13th century. Additionally, Haflong is the only hill station of the state and the headquarter of the least populous Dima Hasao district. He set off to explore from Maibang while traversing through the windy roads. By virtue of geographical location, it’s considered as the fulcrum between the Brahmaputra and the Barak valleys. During the 30 kms long drive, the ADC was mesmerized by treacherous roads and witnessed the exotic world of plants and birds.

And his official iconic white muscle car from Hindustan, once fondly called the king of Indian roads finally halted over a fallen log. With a large tree log blocking the narrow passage; the worst fears had been realized that the path came to a dead end. There was virtually no drive possible inside the dense forest and the sun disappeared almost instantly behind a raincloud. The bags were offloaded and they carried towering loads on their backs supported by a strap over foreheads. The muscled tribal populace used to carry their needs up and down the mountains.

It wasn’t a red-carpet event at the tiny community of Semkhor village. A few settlements of houses on the valley stood a bit primitive. The noise of gentle wind had probably broken the silence of that quiet parish. The Diyang valley looked deserted as the mountainous regions are inaccessible. It felt like exploring the primeval days of history for the ADC. All of a sudden, a group of girls and women assembled after a warbling whistle called out to fall in.

Semkhar is inhabited by Semcha sub-tribe of the Dimasa-Kachari tribe. Khunang – the village Headman came with bare body depicting his lifestyle in wilderness. He gave a speech like a reigning monarch wearing a strip of decorative head wrap and a long sash looping over his shoulder. Incidentally, there were no adult boys in that event as they feared of getting caught. A translator later translated the speech for the ADC which meant, “You have the power of ocean and we desperately needed a helping hand when villagers are plagued by a poverty-stricken land.” Even after so many years of independence, this village still lies neglected and has been lagging behind for the want of roads and education. Potable drinking water here is a dream as the villagers use rainwater to quench their thirst.

Any travellers would be fascinated by the hills’ mystical energy that surrounds the valley. These abandoned hills have numerous mysterious stories to tell. Their religious practices and rituals are quintessentially unique. The ADC was attentive and carefully listened to the headman’s appeal in front of a crowd of fascinated onlookers. He did not make any promises though as he had no financial power but did make notes of the requirements of the village.

As the feast came to an end, with a heavy heart, the ADC turned to wave goodbye. He took away only memories and left behind his footprints. The incident remains as the talk of the day at Administrative Staff College as no one had ever made such a call before. Now, after a decade, tour de Semkhor is calling him again. Dr Sashadhar Nath, IAS (Retd) shared these precious memories with me which inspired me to write the sequence of a gripping narrative from his adventure. His love and care for Semkhor is unfailing.