Why isn't there more adaptive fashion on shopping racks? 

They say fashion is a way to express yourself, a way to show the world who you are. Imagine a scenario where what sets you apart from the rest, is the very thing holding you back from doing just that. Inclusion isn’t just composed of race, gender and sexuality—it also includes (or should include) representation showcasing enabled and disabled bodies.

Adaptive clothing can be defined as garments specially designed for seniors, people with disabilities, people with limited mobility, patients undergoing medical treatments and people who may have difficulty dressing themselves independently. This is important because of a little something called clothed cognition, the influence that clothes have on the wearer’s psychological processes. The clothes we choose to wear can make us feel confident, empowered—imagine not having that choice.

If you’re reading as a non-disabled person, you may wonder, “Well, what’s the difference between off the rack and adaptive clothing?” We spoke to some brands who let us behind the scenes into the “adaptations” they make to ensure their designs are disability friendly.

Reset co founders Monika Dugar and Usha Dugar Baid began researching their adaptive clothing brand eight years ago, when their father was diagnosed with Parkinson’s. “Balancing fashion through functional clothing will empower people and advocate for inclusiveness” Dugar tells Vogue India. "Designing for people with disabilities is not a trend, it’s a necessity".

Their range of designs include smart innovation such as velcro fastenings for independent dressing, and for wheelchair users; easy fastenings which completely open up, allowing the garments to be worn without the wearer having to lift or lower their arms. They have trousers with easy to manage fastenings, side openings cleverly concealed with the appearance of pockets and volume around the knee for easy movement with detachable printed pockets providing visual cues.

Victoria Jenkins, founder and creative director of Unhidden, explains her biggest motivation is providing dignity to the disabled community. It’s something we take for granted every day—the ability to get dressed without difficulty. “I couldn’t bear the thought of people being unable to wear their favourite clothes because they hurt them, or weren’t practical."

In terms of why other brands aren’t following suit with adaptive design Jenkins had this to say, “I don’t think many (any) brands hire people with disabilities, but it’s not entirely their fault. People with disabilities may have more difficulty getting access to education, so if they can’t study design, they can’t become the next generation of designers”. Jenkins herself studied at Istituto Marangoni, and four years after graduating fell unwell and was eventually diagnosed with a variety of gastrointestinal conditions.

Jenkins has made several modifications in her designs to make them more accessible, in her dresses are a concealed zip over the stomach area, allowing easy access for stomas and catheters. There are dexterity options like magnets and velcro or poppers instead of buttons. Her shirts all have access through the sleeve to the whole arm, providing a more dignified option to chemotherapy and radiotherapy patients, as opposed to having to completely remove their clothing for treatment.

Singapore-based inclusive fashion label Will & Well, founded by Elisa Lim, aim to enable wearers through fashion, whether as a caregiver or as a disabled individual who’d like more independence. Lim shares that her label goes far beyond adapting, they don’t call themselves an “adaptive” fashion brand, rather an inclusive fashion brand. It includes a customisation channel, where their designs can be adapted specifically to the functionality needs of the wearer. They have a number of striking innovations including “Hang Loops” which are a pair of long hoops that sit inside their pants, allowing them to be held up by the arms, and "Front Slit” which are cleverly concealed full-length zips, making it easier to dress in and out of trousers.

These are just a few of the hundreds of brands that exist in the inclusive market, a market which by 2026, is expected to be worth upwards of $390 billion. Not a surprise when around 15 per cent of the global population are living with some sort of disability. Chances have it that at some point in our lives we will all be temporarily or permanently impaired, and those who live until an old age—will experience increasing difficulties.

So why are established brands not taking the plunge? Yes, adaptive fashion is on the rise, with “mainstream” brands like Tommy Hilfiger reworking legendary items with accessibility features (like magnetic buttons on their classic trench). But why can our disabled communities not visit any mainstream store and buy something “off the rack” to fit their needs?

We spoke to Stephanie Thomas, founder and CEO Cur8able, who discussed that the unwillingness for the industry to move into disability friendly clothing goes beyond a simple business decision. She has thus developed her (trademarked) Disability Fashion Styling System because there are not enough options for people with disabilities, so with this she aims to bridge the gap. The principles? “Accessible, Smart, Fashionable. Accessible; is it easy to put on and take off? Smart; smart for your health. Is the garment, footwear, accessory medically safe? Finally, do you love it? Does it bring you joy? Is it good for your body type and lifestyle? Once you check those three boxes, that should guide you in your purchase decision,” explains Thomas.

“Fashion choices elude people with disabilities”. It starts with psychology, how we see disability. They don’t know the disabled customer. “You can’t design for someone you don’t see, and you can’t see someone you don’t value”, a quote from Thomas’s own speech at TEDxYYC. “Disability is seen as something that is deplorable and not normal, it’s something bad, taboo. We cannot move forward until people with disabilities are seen as a viable fashion customer."

Also read:

Why disability representation is crucial to building a better, more inclusive fashion industry

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