In a cartoon full of big emotional wallops and tiny pings of heart-stopping narrative specificity, one moment in the new Netflix show City of Ghosts grabbed my limbic system the hardest. The show is about a team of little kids who interview ghosts for a pretend documentary series that not incidentally spins a true history of Los Angeles. In episode 6, the Ghost Club helps a teacher find her friend, a Oaxacan spirit who has run away to hide in a family restaurant in Koreatown. As the kids and their guides troop into the place, the mom who runs it leans over to her daughter to say a few cautious words in Korean about their haunted restaurant.
City of Ghosts, created by a Los Angeles–born animator named Elizabeth Ito, is almost inexpressibly charming, and every episode has a part where I start to cry. This restaurant scene was that. Not because the mom is saying something sad, but because it happens in an LA that I recognize and remember, more so than maybe anything else on TV (even often wondrous Bosch, the hard-boiled detective show which is kind of the exact opposite of this coddled ghost story). I’m just a middle-class white guy who grew up in LA, and City of Ghosts’ multicolored tales of the city aren’t exactly my story—but also they are, or at least they’re the stories of the Los Angeles I loved and miss. I grew up on the edge of Koreatown, and wow, did I recognize the look and sounds of that restaurant, of eating smoky-spicy Korean barbecue in fluorescent-lit mini-malls where every sign is in a different language, of the palmtreed polyglot cacophony that raised me—that you learn to understand what people mean even if you don’t understand the words they’re saying. Los Angeles asks this of all its children.
Now here comes a show that’s a dreamy love letter to all that, a delightful cartoon and most-Los Angeles-y thing ever that also proposes a whole new way to think about cities, ethnicity, and history. You know: for kids.
I mean to get out of the way in a second here, but to just fully disclose, I haven’t lived in LA for three decades. But it still lives in my head. It’s my hometown, yes, but when one of the most significant books of your teenage years is the Los Angeles County Thomas Guide, you start to wonder why LA looks the way it does, and then why other cities don’t. And now that I’m old and live somewhere else, I have shelves full of books and movies about Los Angeles. A lot of them criticize the city for a peculiar kind of amnesia, for abandoning, demolishing, or covering up its past. One of the most famous, The History of Forgetting, locks that thesis right into its title; another, City of Quartz, plays up the fake-gem sparkle of the place. But not everyone in LA has amnesia. It sort of depends on who’s doing the remembering. In just six 19-minute episodes of a streaming kids’ show, Ito and her team have become LA’s rememberers-in-chief. City of Ghosts reframes decades of scholarship by talking to the most interesting ghosts from Los Angeles’ non-white, non-man, non-rich, non-Westside past.
The ghosts are gentle and often mischievous—a Japanese American icon of the 1970s downtown LA punk scene (who was interned during World War II) keeps drinking her daughter’s coffee. A restaurant owner in Boyle Heights just wants the new hipster chef to make the tempura right. Chepe, the Oaxacan ghost in Koreatown, doesn’t want his friend to leave. “When we first started talking about the show at Netflix, people really pegged it early on as sort of like a niche love letter to LA, which is true. But part of me was a little bugged by the idea that it would just be a niche thing,” Ito tells me. “It’s really a love letter to these really, really interesting cultures and communities.”