How to choose the right eye cream for puffiness, fine lines and dark circles

Even if you get a full 8 hours of sleep, drink a lot of water and eat well, eye issues—like dryness, fine lines, dark circles or puffiness—are difficult to fight off. This is thanks to the fact that the eye area tends to show off the first (and most) signs of stress and ageing, due to the thinner skin in the area, and the muscles that get a lot of movement as you laugh, frown or squint. Cue eye creams, which can help moisturise, brighten and lift the eye-area and stop the ageing and pigmentation in its tracks. Here's what you should look for, depending on what your issues are. 

Puffiness

Under-eye puffiness can be a result of various reasons. “Under-eye puffiness can happen because of lack of sleep, genetics, excessive salt and carb intake thanks to water retention,” says Dr Stuti Khare Shukla, MD cosmetic dermatologist and founder, Elements of Aesthetics Clinics. It can also happen when blood and lymph is pooling in the area says Dr Niketa Sonavane, founder, Ambrosia Aesthetics, Mumbai. The ingredient you should be looking for? Caffeine. “Caffeine causes vasoconstriction, which can lead to de-puffing and brightening the area,” she adds. Caffeine is also a natural diuretic, which when applied to the fat cells on the skin, can cause localised dehydration in the area, making it look smoother. 

When it comes to the format, Dr Sonavane speaks of eye creams that come with a metal rollerball. “Roller balls are made of metal so are a little cooler and cause a little bit of vasoconstriction. They also help avoid contamination and make it convenient for travelling," she says. The rollers can serve as massage tools, which can help reduce puffiness in the process.

Fine lines

Dry, parched skin shrivels plump skin cells, which shows up as tiny lines and creases on the skin. “Dryness around the area adds to the look of dark circles as the dead cells have built up. Over-washing and rubbing will only make the area darker. Use an eye cream with hyaluronic acid—it can draw moisture from the air and hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water—to boost plumpness and improve moisture-locking,” suggests Dr Sonavane. "Look for creams with ceramides and lipids, which will help rebuild the protective barrier of the skin and reduce dryness and water loss,” says Dr Shukla. She also recommends peptides and amino acids, which can boost collagen and can make crepe-y skin firmer. If your skin is dry but thick creams tend to cause milia, a gel-cream format might serve you well. They'll melt into the skin and feel light and fresh. 

Dark circles

Genetics is one of the main reasons for the formation of dark circles and you can’t erase them completely, but manage them instead. Sleep deprivation, long hours of screen time, unhealthy eating habits, stress and anaemia also cause dark circles. “Accumulation of blood vessels can also give a blackish or bluish appearance and make the area appear darker. Under-eye hollows and sunken eyes may also make the area appear dark. Vitamin C, niacinamide, retinol, hydroquinone and hyaluronic acid can all help manage dark circles,” says Dr Shukla. Pros like a retinol-based eye cream if you can handle it—it stimulates cell turnover and collagen production, helping to strengthen skin and reduce fine lines. 

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