6 makeup and skincare tricks to balance an oily T-zone

Lit-from-within, dewy skin is the most coveted beauty trend right now, but there's a difference between a strategically placed highlight and an all-over slick that is prone to acne and causes makeup to slip-slide off. If you have an oily skin type, you can tackle this by using balancing skincare products and mattifying makeup, but this can get a little complicated if your cheeks are super dry and your T-zone is perpetually greasy. This is thanks to the many sebaceous glands across the forehead, down the nose and on the chin, which can go into overdrive if you have combination skin, causing more oil production in the area. We spoke to a makeup artist and two skincare pros to give us the low-down on how to deal.

1) Cleanse well, but don't over-cleanse

Washing your face to get rid of oil, makeup and grime is important, but using harsh products and scrubbing your face can actually be counterintuitive as it can cause excess oil production to compensate, says Dr Poorva Shah, dermatologist and founder, Derma Centre. Some doctors suggest cleansing the T-zone with a salicylic acid or glycolic acid-based cleanser, and the rest of the face with a moisturising and balancing one. However, this can be difficult to actually practice. “Suds might drip all over your face and negate this,” says Dr Kiran Sethi, dermatologist and founder of ISYA. Dr Shah suggests washing your face just twice a day, and moisturising straight after to prevent drying out the rest of your face. 

2) Skip stripping toners

Toners that are meant to dry out and mattify the skin can be too harsh. The traditional three step system—cleanser, toner, moisturiser—may not always be perfect for you. Doctors say that people often make the mistake of believing that an alcohol-based product (that gives you a squeaky-clean finish) is really working. This is true even if you're swiping the toner onto just the T-zone—the area could get too dry, causing a sensitive area of the face more prone to acne, congestion and redness, according to Dr Sethi. 

3) Don't over-layer skincare 

If you're prone to oiliness, just pick a few must-have products that'll balance the skin instead of trying a multiple-step routine. “The best application technique to use when applying makeup on an oily T-zone and skin is to firstly only use a primer or a moisturiser, never use both as this is too many product layers on the skin. For example, I like using the MAC Skin Base Primer on the cheeks, and then the MAC Oily T-zone Gel on the forehead, chin and nose,” says makeup artist Maria Asadi, who counts Sonam Kapoor Ahuja and Jourdan Dunn as her clients. 

4) Pick a matte foundation

Matte foundations don't have to be cakey or heavy on the skin. It is common for these kind of foundations to have oil-absorbing ingredients like clay and silica, which can mop up any excess oil. Foundations with oil can clog and suffocate the skin, so they're best left for totally dry skin, says Asadi. “I apply an oil-free foundation by pressing it into the skin with a beauty sponge. When I am happy with the coverage, I press the skin with a tissue to blot excess foundation (or any oily residue on the skin) gently enough to remove excess product,” she confirms. 

5) Over-concealing may not be a good idea

Concealers are more concentrated, they're a “high-coverage foundation in a smaller packaging,” says Asadi. But spackling this onto the T-zone is not a good idea, even though the thicker product may be even more oil-absorbing than a foundation. Using a concealer on your T-zone—which is the centre of your face—will make your foundation and base look much heavier than it needs to be," she says. 

6) Setting powder is a must

Setting powders are loose powders with ingredients like talc and silica. They keep wet products like liquid or cream formulas in place while preventing excess oil production, making them a must-have. “I dust—using a pressing technique—setting powder over the foundation to set the makeup and keep in place and flawless all day,” confirms Asadi. “I use a powder like the Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Finish by pressing it into the skin with a medium-sized powder brush.” It is best to apply it onto hotspot areas of the face, like under the eyes, across the forehead and down the sides of the nose to tone down the shine. 

Also read:

7 different types of foundations and how to pick the best one for yourself

9 makeup setting products that actually have great skincare benefits