Fashion's obsession with the ugly shoe isn’t walking out of our lives anytime soon

In the year 2020, the word ‘ugly’ sounds grossly tone-deaf. But when applied to footwear, the implication is far from derogatory. Rather, it’s meant to capture the current zeitgeist, with its average hype beast’s devotional preference for hyper-trendy shoes, even when quizzical in appearance. In this world, functionality is fashion-forward, and comfort comes with an eye-watering price tag. So let the record show that this is, by no means, a statement in political incorrectness. Just the matter-of-fact observation that a pair of Crocs, even with all its heavy duty embellishments, does not inhabit the same neighbourhood as a pair of Amina Muaddis.

A recent Instagram scroll led me to artist and designer Beate Karlsson’s ‘The Claws’ shoes—basically, overgrown hands for your feet (yes, you read that right) made using silicone and 3D-printed wood fibres. It’s the kind of concoction that Lady Gaga would definitely lap up. Peak ‘ugly shoe’, if you ask us.

But Karlsson isn’t the only one. For his debut Givenchy show this October, Matthew Williams released the three-toed sock-and-sandal combo, which social media really locked into. Hermès, on the other hand, is making clogs chic again. Case in point? Every model was clad in them for the French label’s Spring 2021 show (45 looks, in case you were counting). There’s obviously more: Louis Vuitton’s LV Archlight, Prada’s scuba shoes and Tom Ford’s Jago sneakers. A brand new pair of Gucci’s already-soiled Rhyton and Screener sneakers are what the brand calls ‘distressed’, not dirty. Maison Margiela’s suede and rubber Fusion sneakers are definitely designed in the ‘ugly just got uglier’ spirit. Let’s not forget, this is the brand that released its now-iconic cloven-hoof split-toe Tabi boot way back in 1988. Chanel, they of pearls and prim, has also given in with orthopaedic sandals featuring Velcro straps.

Balenciaga, of course, is a valuable contributor, with creative director Demna Gvasalia at the helm of said ugly chic revolution. First came the Speed Trainer in 2016. Yes, “those Balenciagas, the ones that look like socks,” as Cardi B would say. Then came the chunky dad sneaker in the form of the Triple S (a cult street wear favourite today) and the meme-ready platform Crocs. For Autumn-Winter 2020, the brand has released the ‘Toe’, a collaboration with footwear brand Vibram, tapping into their FiveFingers flexible sole. Even Rihanna is a fan of these split-toe pull-on booties.

Granted that the ugly shoe trend is nowhere new. They walked into our lives as the pool slide in 2013, and ever since, have enveloped everything from the humble sneaker to clunky combat boots and clogs. This truly is a case of anything goes; and has become the evident uniform for the love-yourself, be-yourself generation that doesn’t need the conventionally sexy or pretty to feel good about themselves. The want for ease and comfort has made the once-uncool, cool again. Not unlike the pandemic-approved, stay-at-home-friendly sweatpants that have been scoring serious style cred all year round. It’s fashion’s ultimate democratisation.

With The Crown’s latest season all the rage, the Lady Diana-favoured sneakers and pulled-up socks pairing will soon become ubiquitous too. Bella Hadid has already been putting her weight behind it for some time now. Birkenstocks with socks? Kendall Jenner ensures that it’s not just for tourists at the hotel breakfast anymore. Cousin Greg aka Nicholas Braun gave Crocs their moment when he paired them with a Paul Smith suit for the Emmys this year.

I’ll admit it, my sneaker game isn’t on-trend like the Gen-Z influencers I secretly stalk on Instagram. I don’t own the Triple S or anything in that general vicinity. Ditto with grandpa sandals, no matter how high-end. There is not a clog in sight in my shoe collection. I’ll take the cute strappy sandals any day. Perhaps my bias comes from being a more senior millennial. So, it makes me wonder, Carrie Bradshaw in Manolos style: Are we at the peak yet? Is there an incoming second wave? Is the shoe-calypse here to stay? Perhaps we should walk another mile in them before delivering any verdict.

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