© Courtesy of Browns
Fashion
The retail institution has helped kickstart the careers of countless designers, including Galliano. As it turns 50, the fashion maverick and other industry insiders share their memories of the luxury boutique
It’s the fairytale ending to fashion school that so many students dream of: Joan Burstein (known affectionately in the industry as Mrs B) spots your graduate collection, buys it in its entirety and displays it in the window of her landmark store Browns in London’s Mayfair. Then maybe, just maybe, you’ll become creative director of a storied couture house like John Galliano, or establish your own namesake brand that pushes the boundaries of technology and clothing design à la Hussein Chalayan.
Since Mrs B, 94, and her late husband Sidney set up shop on South Molton Street 50 years ago — having bought the space from jockey-turned-businessman Sir William Pigott-Brown—she has evolved into one of the industry’s greatest godmothers. She describes her love of fashion as being “in my blood” and recalls spending a lot of time with her aunts—both court dressers—from the age of five and in her teens during the second world war when everything was rationed. “I was always seeking things of beauty that were unavailable in the UK for years,” she tells Vogue.
© Courtesy of Browns
So what first drew Mrs B to the likes of Galliano and Chalayan’s designs; to beckon them towards careers that have ultimately changed the course of fashion history? “Their sheer talent was unmistakable. Both had individuality of style and I sensed their unquestionable drive to stand out and succeed,” she says. “Spotting a new designer or even a new accessory always felt like opening a precious Christmas gift, so exciting each and every time.”
Decades before we were able to hop on the internet and order runway looks at the click of a button, Mrs B was out there spotting the superbrands of tomorrow as well as emerging talent. A chance encounter with Calvin Klein on the dancefloor of New York club Studio 54 in 1981 resulted in the brand launching in the UK via Browns; Missoni, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Alaïa, Comme des Garçons and Jil Sander soon followed.
By 2015, Browns was a multimillion pound brand in its own right and that year was acquired by the luxury e-tailer Farfetch. At the time, Holli Rogers was on a sabbatical from her job as fashion editor of Net-a-Porter when Farfetch chief executive José Neves approached her to be CEO of Browns. “I was excited at the prospect of being able to pioneer the next retail frontier and re-establish the foundations of what Browns stands for, which is integrity and innovation,” Rogers says. “Browns continues to build on the legacy established by Mrs B […] supporting and celebrating both the established and next generation of talent.”
To celebrate the institution's 50th birthday, we asked 10 of those established and new-gen talents to share their stories of Browns from over the years. This is what they had to say…
“I’ve known about Browns for as long as I can remember after Mrs B famously put John Galliano’s graduate collection in the window. I loved how there was a more classic Browns, Brown Focus, which always felt so new and exciting, and the Browns Labels for Less — my personal favourite as a teenager. I was always fascinated by the location on Brook Street and it was always important for me to be part of such a London fashion landmark.
“One of my fondest memories of Browns was when I was first stocked at the store and they invited a few designers over—it was the first time I met Martine Rose and James Long, and it felt really nice to be part of a London community.
“My Browns capsule collection celebrates femininity in a modern way. The collection goes across ready-to-wear as well as shoes and accessories, all reimagined in red. Red is such an emotive colour that has become quite a signature to my collections over the years. It represents so much — love, birth, nature and passion.”
© Courtesy Browns
“Way before I moved to London from Manchester, I knew Browns as the store that stocked the newest and best designers. Now my brand will be stocked at Browns. It feels like a big achievement.
“My SS21 collection is about a celebration of freedom and Black elegance. I was looking at images from carnival in Trinidad in the 19th century to carnival today, taking references from the tailoring worn to the costumes people performed in. The fabrics are luxurious, from crepes, silks and bonded fabrics for the more structured pieces. I feel that this was a good time for me and Browns to work together as we’re both celebrating something that is important and meaningful.”
“I was introduced to Holli Rogers through a mutual friend and it was friendship at first sight! I thought she was one of the coolest women I had met. At the time I was still with my first brand [Oscar Tiye] and Holli was interested to see the collection.
“When I launched Amina Muaddi, Browns picked it up right away and asked me to do a special capsule with them. Our relationship has always been organic, and the whole team has been super supportive of my work throughout. I love their curation of brands and the original selection within the collections.”
© Courtesy Browns
“Browns represents a luxury retail experience—embracing its roots while evolving harmoniously with the ever-changing fashion ecosystem. For the capsule I’ve created with them, classic Off-White styles are repurposed with new printing techniques; our classic camouflage print is revived with a soft colour palette on different bases, including denim. Browns is renowned for its pioneering spirit in the luxury fashion world, it was only natural that we created a collection matching just that.”
“I loved window-shopping at Browns as a teenager, admiring the new collections when they came in and dreaming of buying something one day! I was always fascinated by Mrs B, as I always heard her referred to, she sounded so mysterious and fabulous.
“Having the Molly Goddard Browns 50th anniversary capsule in the window of the Mayfair store in September this year felt very special! I wanted to develop signature techniques in new ways. The capsule features hand-smocked soft tulle, a warped gingham print, gathered cotton and ruched mesh. The pieces are fun, colourful and easy to wear, I wanted it to feel classic but with a twist.”
“The first time I met Mrs B was in March 1990 in New York. She was very enthusiastic about the Pucci comeback and loved the collection I had designed. She placed an order and a couple of months later I travelled to London. To my surprise, the whole Browns window was Pucci and Madonna had been seen walking out of the store in a Pucci dress. In those early days of my career, Mrs B was a mentor—giving me constructive comments and asking me to rework some looks. She also has a terrific sense of humour.
© Richard Young/Shutterstock
“What makes Browns unique? Its charm and personality, the selection, the service… all of these elements make it the avant-garde destination it is. We’re celebrating Browns’ 50th anniversary with a 10-item capsule collection inspired by the jet-set lifestyle of the Swinging Sixties. The pyjama palazzo, kaftan, chemisier, leggings and jumpsuit can be cleverly mixed with beachwear. Patterns from the house’s archive, including the Ellisse and Astronauti, are reinterpreted in warm and feminine colours on distinctive Pucci fabrics such as silk twill and Lycra.”
“28 June 1984. That was the date of my first revolution [graduate show]—Les Incroyables—and Mrs B saw something in it that changed my life. Congratulations to Browns on being 50 years in fashion; for all the inspiration, support and adventures—for those we’ve shared and those still to come. Thank you, Mrs B.”
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