Luxur

What Carl Fabergé built

(Clockwise from left) The Coronation Egg; Fabergé x Gemfields x WFG emerald bead necklace with elephant surprise locket; Lapiz Lazuli Egg; Crab Bellpush; Hen Egg; and a butterfly brooch   | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Fabergé’s coloured enamel shot glasses have been in demand during the pandemic (yes, the spenders are housebound!), while a recent collaboration with London-based designer, James Ganh, has fans looking forward to a high-jewellery collection that includes multicoloured gemstone butterfly brooches-pendants and other transformable creations. But any talk of Fabergé must begin with the opulent and decorative eggs that have inspired poets, novelists, filmmakers, even chefs.

(Left) Sarah Fabergé, the great-granddaughter of Peter Carl Fabergé (right)   | Photo Credit: Jammin'Lui

As for Peter Carl Fabergé, the famed goldsmith to the Russian Imperial court, much has been documented about his life, in books, films and interviews. The first egg he made for the Russian Tsar Alexander III (commissioned for his wife) in 1885, was reportedly based on the 18th-century Saxon Royal Egg that he had seen in the Green Vault museum in Dresden.

In good company
  • According to Géza von Habsburg, Fabergé’s curatorial director, every Fabergé workmaster had his own speciality. “In my opinion, the self-taught Russian, Mikhail Perkhin, head workmaster of the firm from 1886 to 1903, was the firm’s most outstanding craftsman. The originality of his designs, the wealth of materials used, the exquisite execution of the large majority of his works and the opulence of the enamel colours used, have no comparison in Fabergé’s oeuvre.” He also highlights Johann Victor Aarne for his detailed work and “easily recognisable varicoloured gold garlands of flowers”.

“A piece that really stands out for me is a bell push from 1911 in chalcedony and silver which I saw in Wartski, London, a few years ago. It was on display from a private collection. This demonstrates Fabergé’s use of an unexpected subject together with sublime craftsmanship and attention to detail,” says Sarah Fabergé.  

There are the Easter eggs he created over three decades in St Petersburg, fashioned from three-coloured gold, rock crystal and other fine materials, encrusted with precious stones, and often concealing a delicious surprise. More than 150,000 objects, from clocks and photo frames to pieces of jewellery, were made at the same time, with Carl Fabergé leading a team of talented artisans. He died in Switzerland on September 24, 1920, two years after he fled from the Bolsheviks. And then began the journey of his 50 Imperial Eggs. To Moscow, the US and other parts of the world. While some of these bejewelled beauties are still missing, many can be viewed up close at Moscow’s Kremlin Armoury and the Fabergé Museum in St Petersburg.

Thinking young
  • Legacy and luxury watch bands have been leaning on digital activation and experimentation with Spotify playlists and Instagram storytelling. What does Fabergé have coming up for a younger audience? “Our timepieces are inspired by our heritage but interpreted in a contemporary, avant garde way through our ingenious mechanical movements. The various designs lend appeal to younger audiences, depending on the type of materials and colours used. For example, the Visionnaire Chronograph in black ceramic, as opposed to the rose gold version, which might be conceived as more traditional. Likewise, our Compliquée Peacock Black with no gemstones can be worn in a more casual way. Stay tuned for more new surprises next year!” says Sarah Fabergé.

“There are so many stories to absorb about Fabergé,” says Sarah Fabergé, the great-granddaughter of Carl Fabergé, when we ask her about the brand’s legacy. “While it is a French name with a Russian soul and an international reputation, having grown up in England, I am particularly enjoying the book Fabergé in London: The British Branch of the Imperial Russian Goldsmith by Kieran McCarthy,” she says. Sarah, 61, has been representing the brand at some of the most glamorous events around the world. “My great-grandfather described himself as a shopkeeper and in this way, connecting with and listening to our clients and partners is what I find the most energising and it is vital to our business,” she says. While the Fabergé Hen Egg is one of her favourites, 1983’s Octopussy, tops her list of pop culture references. “Being part Russian and a James Bond fan, the use of a Fabergé Egg in a Bond film for me is the perfect blend of mystery, storytelling and intrigue. Reality meets fantasy. We all need a bit of both!” she concludes.

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Printable version | Sep 27, 2020 11:04:39 AM | https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/luxury/what-carl-faberg-built/article32696977.ece

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