How the beauty industry’s face masks became a vital tool for self-care

Sometimes, we find ourselves scrambling for slowness. Even with a world in different states of lockdown, the never-ending ties we have to our phones and laptops mean that we’re always, even when we’re sitting still, on the go. There are few things that command our full attention nowadays. A face mask, it seems, is one of them.

We live in a time when we like our skincare to be transparent: serums, creams and gels that make our face flawless, often to the point that makeup is rendered obsolete. But these are embedded into a routine that we act out everyday. Applying a hyaluronic acid formula has become as normal as brushing your teeth. So while you may be investing heavily in getting great skin, you’re seldom given the opportunity to revel in just how good you look, and the slow, almost sensual process that takes you there.

This is where the power of a good face mask lies. There’s the ubiquitous sheet masks: Korean-made ones such as Dr. Jart+ and Benton, stacked with collagen and infused with gold, as much an IG-friendly accessory as they are a beauty must-have.

Then there’s the constant, ever-growing array of clay masks, including Aesop’s Parsley Seed Cleansing Masque, which serves its function both practically and aesthetically, its chic cream tube featuring in the background of bathroom selfies everywhere. But for those who believe in the healing properties of nature, it’s a trend to go DIY. A selfie of Kendall Jenner with avocado slathered on her face (the chlorophyll helps reduce inflammation and the Vitamin E promotes softness) caused many of us to follow in her footsteps.

Face value

In lockdown, sales have gone through the roof. Retail data gathered by key beauty trend analysts WGSN shows that, during the pandemic, the out of stock (OOS) rate of sheet masks in Britain increased by 26 per cent on 21 April month on month, eventually reaching 39 per cent. The OOS rate of other masks, such as the clay and foaming kind, was 27 per cent on that same date.

The past few months of uncertainty have led us to seek refuge from the hectic nature of working from home. Kristina Marie-Ross, 27, is a Scottish content creator who uses SiO patches—silicone patches that target lacklustre skin—as part of her daily skincare routine. “When I buy full face masks, I don’t necessarily know if it’s going to change my life in one evening,” she tells Vogue via a phone call, “but putting a face mask on and winding down with a film or good music is just a lovely feeling sometimes. It’s more of a self-care ‘habit’ than anything else.”

While her skincare routine is slightly more elevated, she regularly buys own-brand pharmacy face masks when she wants to relax. “The routine in itself (for me) can give me a confidence boost if I’m using masks before I go out or meet people, too.” She steers clear of clay masks because she feels like “they look a bit gross,” but she occasionally splashes out on Korean gold sheet masks. “They feel luxurious, and I want to feel like luxury.”

Kristina raises an interesting point: why do we use face masks when we already have thorough, working skincare routines without them? In some ways, they’re an alternative for the experience we’d get at a spa, most of which are still shuttered in the wake of the pandemic.

Being stuck at home will make us more inventive with the masks we invest in, Jenni Middleton, director of beauty at WGSN believes. “With consumers looking to use more leave-in and leave-on products as they work flexibly, and with slow bathing becoming more important as the bathroom becomes a centre of wellness for consumers, there will be an uptick in the use of face, body and hair masks,” she says. “Post-coronavirus, consumers might be less able, comfortable or financially capable of visiting a salon or spa, so at-home face masks or any other kind of leave-in product will become important as part of a brand’s portfolio as consumers will be looking for DIY and at-home self-care solutions.”

Approaching things from a different angle, skincare brand Dermalogica recognises that at some point, things will return to normal, and the measurable benefits of a face mask need to react as quickly as possible, when the pace of everyday life eventually fastens. The brand’s education manager Candice Gardner says Dermalogica is focusing on masks that “pack a punch without having to wait too long [for the results]” since “getting the benefits in five minutes suits our busy lifestyle”. The brand’s new Hydro Masque Exfoliant has different levels of intensity, with the bamboo exfoliant breaking down the more you massage it into your skin. That the range is designed to offer maximum results in such a short space of time is also symbolic of the future of skincare post-pandemic. These months of working from home will, eventually, come to an end, and in their wake will be an increased demand for fitting luxury self-care into as short a space of time as possible.

Like other brands, Dermalogica has also refined its focus, honing in on the science behind its products which, Middleton says, goes hand in hand with what we hear on the news. After months of being told to follow the science when it comes to handling the pandemic properly, consumers are eager to see clear, science-backed, and measurable results. “The biggest trends are masks using specific ingredients that hydrate, [such as] hyaluronic acid or Vitamin C, or provide other benefits from active ingredients,” Middleton says. “Consumers want proven performance benefits, and certainly post-pandemic, we will be seeing an increase in clinical, science-backed brands that can evidence claims. This will lead to an uptick in derma brands as consumers have got used to hearing from, and trusting the opinions of, medical experts during this crisis.”

The male gaze

But there’s also something about face masks that’s won over even the traditionally anti-skincare demographic too: men. According to Allied Market Research, it’s estimated that the male skincare industry will be worth $166bn by 2022, with data analysts Stylus suggesting that it’s already experienced a surge in lockdown. Once just a curiosity mostly exercised in secret, boyfriends, husbands and housemates are often making their first foray into skincare with face masks, drawn in by the zenful energy that using them gives off. Face masks, in some ways, are the most low-maintenance form of self-care. For men who don’t yet have the energy to put together a several-step morning routine beyond soap and moisturiser, face masks are non-committal. Maybe that makes them more of a rare treat to actually use.

Matt Morgan, 27, is a music manager. His daily skincare routine includes a Vitamin C serum and moisturiser, but he supplements this with sheet masks. “Throughout my day, I’m being pulled in all directions and it’s rare that I focus on one thing without being distracted,” he says. “My 10 to 20 minutes with a face mask gives me time to think and relax deeply. When I wear a face mask, it limits me from doing anything else.”

Perhaps that’s the reason why we’re now in the midst of a face mask craze: relaxation has been redefined. Sitting at home no longer constitutes winding down, and so we need to find something to make that difference more apparent. So whether you’re looking to make your skin glow, or just need an excuse to indulge in some R&R, here’s your way to do it: switch off your phone, put on a face mask and forget about things for a little while. Now more than ever, it’s important to remember that you deserve it.

Also read:

Why a “fussy” makeup and skincare routine can serve as lockdown self-care

Experimental beauty has become my quarantine self-care

Self-care for sale: Can you buy your way to better mental health?