Hot vs cold temperatures: What is best for maintaining glowy, healthy skin?

Have you been confused about whether you should ice your big red zit down to nothing, or use a warm compress on your skin to draw the infection out? Us too. Using both heat and cold are go-to therapies to boost skin health, but knowing when to use what is key. We asks pros across philosophies—Ayurveda, K-Beauty and traditional dermatology for their take. 

What do cold and hot temperatures do to the skin?

Dr Taruna Yadav, senior Ayurveda expert, Forest Essentials breaks down the significance of different temperatures on the skin. “Hot temperatures or heat therapy increases the blood flow in the skin, allowing oxygen and nutrients to move through blood vessels which is essential for the regrowth of damaged tissue and for the stimulation of fibroblasts."  Heat is also known to increase the skin permeability, which results in better absorption of the skincare products to reach deeper into the layers of the skin.

On the other hand, cold therapy promotes vasoconstriction (shrinking the blood vessels), which leads to a change in the blood flow and causes the muscles of the face to constrict. “It works like an astringent and may cause your skin to retract briefly and create a unique workout for all the structural building blocks of the face,” she she confirms. 

What temperature is ideal for use on the face?

While a steaming hot shower sounds tempting after a long day, it may not be as great for your skin. Extra hot water can strip away the natural oils and dry you out. “When washing your face, cold or lukewarm temperature is always better. Cold water can be anti-inflammatory, tighten pores, boost circulation and calms the skin, it’s great on days when your skin looks tired and needs a pick-me-up.” Explains celebrity dermatologist Dr Kiran Sethi, “Hot water on the other hand, causes dryness, irritation and worsens rosacea. It also causes more water to be evaporated from the skin.” 

According to Dr Yadav, both hot and cold therapies are good for the skin when used after a clear understanding of the different skin types and their requirements. For example, vata skin, which is dry, thin texture and prone to signs of ageing works best with warmer temperatures, so steaming the face is a great add-on to bring better blood circulation. Pitta skin is usually sensitive and prone to acne and inflammation, so using ice, cold spoons or face rollers are a good call.  On the other hand, K-Beauty products and routines place a lot of importance to lowering the skin’s temperature, especially on a hot day.  “Cold temperatures can help calm inflammatory reactions and suppress pigmentation to brighten the skin,” says Sowoong Choi, senior researcher for Amore-pacific Corp and spokesperson for Laneige and Sulwhasoo. 

How to reduce acne, redness and dull skin through temperature therapies

When it comes to specific skin conditions, those dictate the ideal temperatures. Those prone to redness and rosacea can see anti-inflammatory results from ice rollers or just products applied straight from the fridge. However, too much too soon can cause quick vasoconstriction that can lead to broken capillaries, so going slow and controlled is key.

For those with painful, cystic acne, ice can help to numb the area while reducing redness. Whiteheads can be brought to a head with a warm compress—it'll hasten the healing process too. 

How extreme temperatures have become a skincare must-have

One wellness treatment that boasts of multiple benefits is cryotherapy, a treatment that exposes the skin to subzero temperatures. “Cryotherapy uses liquid nitrogen to create below freezing temperatures. It is healing and rejuvenating,” describes Dr Sethi. The intense cold causes the blood vessels to contract and tighten, so when the skin returns to normal, the blood vessels dilate back quickly. This sudden flow of oxygen and blood from the face can make the skin look glowier and plump.

On the other end of the spectrum are infrared saunas. By raising the body temperature, all the sweat helps detoxify and leads to an exception glow. Plus, the heat can kill acne-causing bacteria and unclog pores. “The best thing to do is it alternate between the two treatments to reap the maximum benefits of rejuvenation. Just be sure to space them out,” signs off Dr Sethi.

Also read:

How to transition your skincare routine for summer, according to K-beauty

Here's why you're waking up to a puffy face in the morning

Is steaming your face actually good for your skin?