© Jacquemus
Fashion
The Vogue team reports on cruise and couture shows from the front of their laptop screens
The show must go on
2020 will go down in fashion history as the year that designers experimented with formats to showcase couture and cruise collections, hoping to charm and transport the viewer to more positive, hopeful times. How the format of the fashion show changes for good remains to be seen, but one thing’s for sure, the drama of the collections was definitely not missing. Ahead the Vogue team reviews some of the most noteworthy shows:
Prada spring/summer 2021
Aptly titled ‘The Show That Never Happened’, Miuccia Prada’s swansong as solo creative director was presented through five global creatives—Terence Nance, Joanna Piotrowska, Martine Syms, Willy Vanderperre and Juergen Teller—who each brought their perspectives to the both the men and women’s collection. For Mrs Prada, the post-pandemic wardrobe is one of simplicity, she espoused the need to go back to basics. Standouts included a couture-esque voluminous lace prom dress, with the iconic Prada logo, styled with simple leather ballet flats; a powder pink coat, with a shoulder bag, and a crisp Peter Pan collared shirt, paired with a formal taffeta skirt. The collection took us to the heart and soul of the brand—marrying austerity with complexity. As Willy Vaderperre rightly said, “Prada evolves and changes every season; this season, the part we were shooting and filming felt like an honest collection. Stripped from fashion ideas, which turns that idea into fashion again. It also felt introspective and slightly schizophrenic. A look into the past with the future ahead. I hope that the audience feels that in the movie, a distilled pure and honest presentation of the collection.”
Ralph & Russo couture 2020
Set against the backdrops of the seven wonders of the world, creative director Tamara Ralph allowed us to travel, albeit through a screen. Modelled on Avatar Hauli—a Swahili word that stands for strength and power, the label’s couture creations were out of a fashion fairy tale. Hauli appears in front of the Taj Mahal in a high slit pink embellished gown, on Machu Picchu in a pastel floral dress, in the mystic lost city of Chichen Itza in a voluminous mustard yellow cape gown and inside the Colosseum in a white column dress with an oversized bow hip bustle. For those few moments, we forgot that we were cocooned within the four walls of our homes and were reminded of the beauty of our world and the promise of exploring again soon.
Dior cruise 2021
If there’s one aspect that has become a trademark for Maria Grazia Chiuri, it's her application of pithy sayings. And for cruise she didn’t disappoint. ‘We Rise By Lifting Others’, showed up all over my feed, in the form of the light installation created by multidisciplinary artist Marinella Senatore at the Piazza del Duomo in Lecce, a small town in Puglia. Since taking over at Christian Dior, Chiuri has through all her collections come out as a supporter of strong feminist values and women’s empowerment. “During this period, I sought to give collective efforts a new dimension. Despite the disadvantages of distance, bringing a different perspective to our daily lives has given us strength and imagination,” says Chiuri of the visual treat that she created for a closed select audience that included locals and some key clients. The collection put a spotlight on the local arts and crafts of the region of Puglia. The models walked across the Duomo in dusky-hued dreamy embroidered gowns juxtaposed with colourful knit and print patchwork separates that were styled in true Chuiri style with comfortable flats, headscarves and flattering corsets. The region’s uniqueness was celebrated in pieces such as striped blanket skirts, dresses made of squares of cotton lace (a tradition of women producing lace squares at different moments in their life) and accessories that evoked the flowers seen in the neighbouring fields.
- Priyanka Kapadia, fashion director
Valentino autumn/winter couture 2020
If anyone had told me six months ago, that I would be sitting in my bedroom, babe in arms, watching a couture show, I would have thought they were out of their minds. But such is the reality of the times we are living in. It's been an interesting season, to say the least, to see how designers have created and transmitted their worlds over 10mbps, across the globe. And some, like Valentino, delivered on the drama, even when separated by a screen. Live from Cinecitta Studios in Rome, “The Performance: of Grace and Light, a dialogue between Pierpaolo Piccioli and Nick Knight,” was a unique merging of the physical and digital. The 16-look, predominantly all white collection, Piccioli said was an “extreme response” to the strict lockdown and a testament to the dream of couture. The showcase, which started with a black and white film (in a nod to the trademark gloss of the Italian cinema, à la Visconti and Fellini), taking you through the empty streets of Rome, capturing the strangeness of some of the world’s most popular landmarks, bereft of any people, then cut to a black screen, where flowers and feathers, were digitally projected onto models, seemingly suspended in space as an unreleased FKA Twigs soundtrack played. For the local audience, the curtains were pulled back to reveal the models on risers, showcasing the exaggerated volume and form of these looks. Like any couture house would, Piccioli promised, that these would be then re-sized and fitted for the client.
Gucci resort 2021
Two years ago in May, I was seated in a cemetery in Arles, as models sauntered down a runway ringed with fire. Fast forward to last week, when Gucci’s final cruise collection, titled Epilogue, streamed across my screen for the better part of the day. The three part narrative, that started with the resort 2021 show, where guests were invited backstage, saw models directing the campaign as a part of the next season. This time around, Alessandro Michele drew back the curtain for a 12 hour long live stream that put into spotlight the dedication and effort of those behind-the-scenes. From the hair and makeup teams, to the security, and the models who in their day jobs are a part of the design team. "The clothes will be worn by those who created them. The designers with whom, every day, I share the daze of creation, will become the performers of a new story….They will stage what we passionately imagined. It’s a process of role reversal, once more,” he explained in the show notes. Each shot, mentioned the designer’s name and their role, and also included a few personal details. The collection was replete with Michele-isms—florals! beading! lace! print! all piled on, and of course, accented jewellery fit for the magpie and in some cases his iteration of the iconic Jackie bag. The show within the show, was a gamble that paid off, with Gucci recording 34.2 million views, as they end one chapter and begin the next for the label.
Balmain resort 2021
Olivier Rousteing of Balmain is a part of the digital savvy generation of designers, often being touted as leading the way when it came to using social media to promote his cool-girl-adored label. In June, he dropped his resort 2021 collection lookbook, shot in Normandy, on Instagram, immediately garnering accolades for the bright, optimistic, and pop. The collection, which had notes of hit '90s shows, Beverly Hills 90210, Saved by the Bell, and Fresh Prince of Bel Air—that Rousteing was re-watching, was created over Zoom, Skype and WhatsApp, through the lockdown. On the day, the lockdown in Paris was lifted, Rousteing had another surprise up his embroidered sleeve—#BalmainSurSeine—a show hosted on a barge, floating down the river, with the pop singer Yseult, 50 dancers, archive couture pieces from past creative directors such as Oscar de la Renta and founder Pierre Balmain, as well as a few new pieces. With the city as its backdrop and with the locals watching from the, this was Rousteing’s ode to the city that Balmain has called home for the last 75 years.
- Priyanka Khanna, fashion features director
Maison Margiela Artisanal autumn/winter 2020
The biggest thrill of watching how the Maison Margiela Artisanal fall 2020 came together was to see the young team that works with John Galliano, a living legend by any standards. The juxtaposition of his deft skills in cutting innovating patterns, draping like it's his birthright, with a radically futuristic minded school of thought contributes to the magic of Maison Margiela as we know it. Despite the house priding itself in being notoriously secretive, this season Maison Margiela’s every step, text, email, Zoom call was watched over by Nick Knight who put together the final film of the presentation.
Galliano’s vision for the collection was genderless, following principles of sustainability and upcycling and really seeing couture for modern consumption. His moodboard bore references to his own Fallen Angels collection of spring 1986, Martin Margiela’s crushed jerseys sandwiched in stocking fabric and marble statues draped in gossamer fabric, followed by Blitz Kids of the '80s, refraction of light and X-ray visions. The final product was cool, conceptual and as intriguing as anything to have come from the house. Galliano is both a poet and a surgeon on the cutting flow and for a designer to channel his classical understanding of couture and transform into a modern being is no small feat. Maison Margiela Artisanal fall 2020 is strikingly individualistic in comparison to other collections on the schedule. Was it couture as we know it? Does it matter?
Louis Vuitton cruise 2021
Nicolas Ghesquière likes tarot because of the variety of interpretations each card can symbolise. Using a deck of cards as a leitmotif through the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2021 collection, the visionary played with shapes, suits, colours through the lineup. Historical ruffled collars clashed beautifully with relaxed suits that wouldn’t look out of place on Netflix’s The Politician. Yes, Louis Vuitton may have French origins, but its customer sits in more than one place, and the creative director is acutely aware of it. Stationary journey was the underlying theme this season, in which Ghesquière refers to the one, that we’re having within ourselves and Ghesquière’s shapely, curvy cuts seen in heavy fabrics created an armour of sorts for the Louis Vuitton woman. There’s another way to interpret his usage of cards; perhaps the designer referred to the fragility of our times, how quickly our carefully built realities could come crashing down with one wrong breath.
-Rujuta Vaidya, co-digital and fashion editor, Vogue.in
Viktor & Rolf autumn/winter couture 2020
Watching a couture show on my laptop from my apartment, without the requisite Parisian traffic snarls, mega watt glamour and noisy paps, felt a little unsettling at first. I missed everything about being in Paris in July, including my obligatory hot chocolate at Café de Flore. But all it took was the dramatic orchestral music, and Mika’s voiceover, to immediately catapult me into the world created by the designer duo. The Viktor and Rolf AW20 collection showcased three small wardrobes consisting of a negligee, dressing gowns and coats in a video that riffed on the salon collections of yore. All nine looks had subtle messaging pertaining to the current climate. From the global pandemic (the asymmetric pink glitter pleather coat, which offers the best fashionable solution to social distancing) to sustainability (the designers worked with local suppliers in Amsterdam and drew from their own fabric stock) to finally our reliance on technology (the one-shoulder Japanese satin puffed sleeve nightgown decorated in contradictory emojis).
Etro spring/summer 2021
It was a breath of fresh air—literally—to watch the men's and women's collections that Veronica and Kean Etro presented in the garden of the Four-Season hotel in Milan. One of the few labels to host a physical show, it was accompanied by the music of the late Ennio Morricone, and delivered an uplifting sense of hope and desire to move on. This was palpable in the choice of rich archival patterns, bold colour palettes and of course an easy, bohemian attitude. Elements of masculinity and femininity showed up with a tailored jacket over a romantic mousseline dress as the highlight of the show. Etro’s commitment to sustainability was also another focal point, their use of yarns made from eucalyptus or from recycled plastic bottles.
- Fabio Immediato, senior fashion editor
Rahul Mishra autumn/winter couture 2020
The second show since Rahul Mishra became a member of the Chambre de Syndicale de Haute Couture, took place earlier this month as part of the official Paris Haute Couture Week fall/winter 2020-21 calendar. Among Giambattista Valli and Chanel was Mishra’s docu-style film ‘Butterfly People’, leading with the couturier making a case for couture and the craftsman in these troubled times. “Using couture as an idea to give work to craftspeople and utilise artisan skills and employ them became far more meaningful,” Mishra’s voice echoes from behind sheer organza with embroidered butterflies. The collection, beautiful as ever, came with robust scenes of an ecosystem filled with lakes, wildlife, flora, and of course, butterflies woven onto masks and veils. The key takeaway was a positive side-effect of the pandemic we all hope to retain; that of nature thriving while we stay sequestered in.
Ronald van der Kemp autumn/winter couture 2020
In January, the RVDK couture show had Celine Dion sitting front row; cut to July, the singer and couture queen was probably at home, in a pair of bejewelled pyjamas (it is Celine Dion we are talking about after all), watching the upcycled couture collection video from her phone, like the rest of us. Ronald van der Kemp, who doesn’t believe in seasons, but rather wardrobes, ie creating pieces for a wardrobe built to last, collages vintage scraps he finds scouring the world. Some come in the form of donations, others bought from archives and high-end retailers, and some get recycled from his older collections.
The couturier who cut his teeth working at Barney’s and Phoebe Philo’s Celine, and started his own Amsterdam-based label in 2015, counts Emma Watson, Lady Gaga, Katy Perry and of course Dion, as fans.
For ‘Wardrobes 12’, he created ‘A statement in 8 chapters’ that included ‘Dream’, ‘People’, ‘Pollution’ and ‘Beauty’, among others. Showcased in an ’80s style video format, the clothes included collages of upcycled vintage pieces in true RVDK style. The highlight: a tailored scarlet suit with a matching hat and pointed pumps and a dangerously low cleavage.
Chanel autumn/winter Haute Couture 2020
“Ultra-rock romanticism” reads one Instagram caption of Chanel’s haute couture fall/winter 2020-21 collection. With that, model Edie Cambell poses with a pink mohawk in tweed dresses and gowns as creative director Virginie Viard looks to the late King Karl for inspiration. Punk and romance were the two foundations that Karl Lagerfeld brought to Chanel. “I had a black moire dress in mind, punky make-up and jewels from the High Jewelry,’’ said Viard on the social media portal where the collection first dropped. Scanning the images, it was clear that at the heart of it was the wild side of couture—one where there was room for craft but also a kookiness. One taffeta wedding dress with a super-sized silhouette really brought this theme to the fore. Its crinoline-like shape also spotlighted the overarching theme behind Viard’s vision—that of “heroines inspired by a 19th century painting.”
Versace resort 2021
Last week, Versace’s new resort collection ‘Versace Flash’ dropped and brightened up everyone’s pandemic blues with acid brights and serene pastel shades. It’s clear that Donatella Versace has decoded the formula to breaking the internet (JLo strutting down the runway in the revisited jungle print dress she wore 20 years ago was an eyeball catcher), and she delivers it every time with every collection. This time, she tapped rapper AJ Tracey and model Anok Yai to perform a set on the brand’s Instagram Live, while the collection video saw snippets of Versace herself making a cameo. The co-ed collection true to its name has a flash of skin no matter a suit or python-printed trench coat. A little slit at the waist, a hole in the cleavage, a gape of midriff skin under a cardigan. With additions of archival prints patchworked into skater dresses, hipsters and athleisure so intrinsic to the early naughties aesthetic, Versace returned to the era that catapulted her right to the top.
- Akanksha Kamath, junior fashion features editor
Alberta Ferretti, resort 2021
For Alberta Ferretti, resort has always been about travel. With the world coming to a standstill and Italy being one of the first countries to go into a nationwide lockdown, it was only fitting that the entire show was a tribute to her home. The limitations of not being able to have a physical show did not stop the designer from celebrating through her resort 2021 collection. Set against the backdrop of some of the most iconic structures in Milan, Venice, Rome and Naples; the postcard-like images were a clear reminder of the magnificence of Italy. Sitting in my living room I was transported to the Trevi fountain, the Colosseum and the Duomo in Milan, all through the screen, of course. Feretti made it a point to approach her entire collection with a sense of optimism—from bright colours like fuchsia and orange to the nautical combination of white and blue, her collection was all about sparking joy. Day time dressing triumphed—monochrome suits, printed shirt dresses and tailored jackets, she also revisited her signatures—floor length dresses in intricate prints, romantic lace and delicate chiffons, signalling a promise that we will celebrate again soon.
Loewe spring/summer 2021
In an effort to think outside the box, designer Jonathan Anderson chose to do the exact opposite for his spring 2021 mens and women's pre collection, one that he believes is relevant to the times. Imagine a time capsule that transports you to Anderson’s world, an extension of everything on his moodboard—cultural nuances, arts and craft. Loewe’s ‘Show-in-a-Box’ was exactly that. A canvas covered box file packed with fabric swatches, a pop-up show set, a flip book of clothes on mannequins, cut-out sunglasses, a pattern to a top that you could recreate at home and inspiration for the collection among other things was sent to those would would ideally have been watching his show in person. In the box were also cut-outs of the Loewe staff members, a sign that Anderson wanted to shine light on the unsung heroes of the brand. The collection was also showcased on the brands social platforms where Anderson called out all the artists and crafts he drew inspiration from. Idoia Cuestra’s basketweaves, Paul Cadmus painting ‘The Inventor’, Noguchi lamps, Shibori dying all played out through the collection. For Anderson, the collection celebrates the work in process on a mannequin—folding, tying, wrapping, draping. And for those who are just spectators of the clothes, the play of structure and form cannot go unnoticed.
- Ria Kamat, junior fashion editor
Dolce & Gabbana couture 2020
COVID-19, the equaliser, gave us all a front row seat, even at the temple of couture. While most brands resorted to theatrical visual expressions, the Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda Collection took a different approach, using the video format to present a simple runway show where the clothes were fluid and the real hero. They embraced the laid-back mood or the moment and give their over 1000-strong, global Alta Moda community of loyal customers exactly what they want—a fashion fantasy to escape into while they remain cooped up in their palatial mansions. The collection took us to the enchanting Italian seaside resorts of Capri, Amalfi, Portofino, Taormina, Venice, Como—rich in beauty and culture, a slice of the Dolce Vita we could all use a bit of right now. Think zebra print kaftans trimmed in ostrich feathers, or oversized Hawaiian shirts belted in sashes, kimono robes worn over swimsuits or halter dress in exquisite printed chiffon that move without a breeze. These are the kinds of clothes that take you on holiday without leaving the comfort of your bed.
Tarun Tahiliani, couture 2020
On the 16th of July this year, couturier Tarun Tahiliani—who is celebrating 25 years in the business—presented his first ever digital presentation titled ‘Pieces of You’. An audience of over 8000 people, fans and customers alike from around the world tuned in to witness the extravaganza. The collection focused on iconic pieces, techniques, fabrications and silhouettes the brand has nurtured and popularised over the past two and a half decades. Presented in the format of a conventional runway show, the video presentation was shot at Tahliani’s studio at Gurgaon and covered over 100 individual looks. The one-of-a-kind show presented his bridal-wear, occasion-wear and ready-to-wear lines in an amalgamation of different ideas that represent the modern Indian woman, told obviously through a unique Tarun Tahiliani lens. “The year 2020 has forced us to look inwards. And some of us have embraced that challenge. Hitting the reset button has been nothing but an act of bravery,” said Tahiliani. The collection, true to brand, offers intricate embroidery, but paired down in classic drapes, and a largely monotone palette of burnt orange, ombre pink and shades ranging from dusty gold to ivory chikankari.
- Daniel Franklin, junior fashion editor
Lanvin spring/summer 2021
For the spring/summer 2021 collection, creative director Bruno Sialelli created a space where fiction, reality, invented characters and stories all came together seamlessly to form the Lanvin collection, showcased against the backdrop of the Palais Ideal. Epitomising the quintessential French wardrobe—think capes, blouses, easy tailoring, silk dresses in summer pastels, perfect for a jaunt at the Riviera. Accessories were also in focus—vintage-inspired pieces like scarves, gloves and turbans—added a touch of Hollywood glamour to the French nonchalance, that makes Parisian style so sought after.
Jacquemus spring/summer 2021
Just when you finally got over the surreal setting of Jacquemus’ lavender field runway last season, the wunderkind designer dazzles again. This time, with a surreal show created amongst the wheat fields (with the wheat shafts providing the perfect social distancing!). Simon Porte Jacquemus, showed his collection ‘L’amour’ or ‘Love’ was dedicated to his hard working team who worked through the pandemic to continue creating. “What’s so beautiful about L’Amour is how it can endure—sometimes even grow stronger—in the absence of people being together,” wrote the designer on Instagram. The wistfully romantic collection featured maxi skirts with thigh-high slits, reinvented mini dresses, shirts with the Jacquemus spin, and linen suits along with elegant evening dresses. The designer whose signature mini bag Le Chiquito, dotted the arm of every cool girl across the world, revealed a new variation—Chiquito Noeud, among other soon-to-be-sold out accessories including spiral earrings, ceramic necklaces and strappy sandals. Besides the clickbait of his location and it accessories, Jacquemus chose to champion values of sustainability and inclusivity by showcasing menswear and womenswear in one collection, using the same materials, and also by casting models of all sizes, with over 60 per cent models of colour.
- Naheed Driver, fashion coordinator
