With brands dropping the words ‘fair’, ‘light’ and ‘white’, is the skincare market poised for a makeover

Industry watchers are expecting more brands, the likes of Nivea and Emami, to either drop words or change their marketing communication in response to this trend.

Breaking away from the very stereotypes they helped reinforce over decades, some of the biggest beauty and skincare brands have decided to either withdraw or rename their skin whitening product ranges in India and the US. This comes close on the heels of the Black Lives Matter movement that’s gaining prominence across the globe.

Johnson & Johnson has decided to stop making and selling Neutrogena Fine Fairness and Clean & Clear Fairness product ranges. Unilever has rebranded its iconic skincare brand Fair & Lovely as Glow & Lovely. The company’s men’s range will be called Glow & Handsome. L’Oréal has declared it will drop words such as ‘fair/fairness’, ‘white/whitening’ and ‘light/lightening’ from its products and communication.

From portraying dark-skinned people as being disadvantaged over their fair-skinned counterparts, brands wish to now weave a responsible and purposeful narrative. Could dropping discriminatory words just be the beginning?

The fairness trap

In 2019, Fair & Lovely removed the ‘before and after’ impressions and shade guides from its packs. Also, the brand now uses words like ‘glow’ and ‘radiance’ as product benefits, instead of ‘fair’ in its advertisements. Yet, the brand is routinely pulled up by the Advertising Standards Council of India (ASCI) for its ads that show skin colour enhancement.

Industry watchers are expecting more brands, the likes of Nivea and Emami, to either drop words or change their marketing communication in response to this trend. A spokesperson from Emami, the makers of men’s fairness cream Fair and Handsome, says it is already “evaluating the next course of action”.

Since brands are attempting to stop pandering to a deep-seated cultural stereotype, mere rebranding may not be enough, experts say. “Brands with purpose have realised that they should not even have products in their portfolio that cater to the discriminatory mindset,” says Lulu Raghavan, MD, Landor India.

However, since the fairness products market in India is significantly large — worth nearly Rs 5,800 crore, according to Nielsen Retail Measurement Services — companies may not be in favour of discontinuing their hot-selling product lines. The market, which includes face moisturisers, hand and body lotions, face cleansers and bleaches, is growing at 4.4% (moving annual total) as of March 2020, and is dominated by fairness moisturisers. As per industry estimates, Fair & Lovely, worth Rs 4,000 crore, is the market leader.

KV Sridhar, CCO, Nihilent-Hypercollective, believes they are here to stay. “These products, just like other cosmetics, aim to enhance a person’s self-confidence. People will continue to associate fair/light/white with these products for at least two generations after the rebranding.”

Hit refresh

To avoid alienating consumers who prefer fairness creams, brands may be forced to use synonyms that convey the same message, experts say. “They may use words like ‘skin vitality’, ‘radiance’ or change the whole marketing message to ‘inclusive beauty’. There is a lot of potential to move away from skin whitening, and speak about skin health and skin upkeep,” says Pradeep Srinivasan, consultant, Euromonitor International.

Glow & Lovely will be in stores in a few months’ time. Unilever and L’Oréal are expected to invest heavily in marketing after the rebranding. Industry executives say that the marketing of the new avatars of these products will be crucial to retaining the brand equity of the older brands.

New-age companies have been using a mix of direct benefit and esoteric words as brand names. “Skincare brand names like Glossier, Fresh, Good Molecules and Organic Riot are examples of brands using real English words, and not just coined words to convey the benefit, effectiveness, or scientific solution that the product offers,” says Raghavan.

Choosing a name that does not convey a direct benefit could be challenging, says Shankar Prasad, founder of Indian skincare brand Plum. “One has to work harder on the messaging and positioning of the brand when a name is not straightforward,” he says.

Moving away from ‘fair’ and its synonyms could give brands a fresh opportunity to expand their sub-brands and develop products that tackle specific skin issues. “We are seeing slower growth for the fairness cream category, which could be attributed to evolving consumer tastes. Rebranding could allow brands to tap these consumers, too,” says Srinivasan.

Read Also: Emami may take legal action against HUL over rebranding of ‘Fair & Lovely’

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