How to pick the right skincare ingredients for your skin concerns

If there's one thing that this lockdown has forced us to do, it's been to slow down. Taking the time to understand, revamp and amp up your skincare routine has its pros—you'll have glowier, brighter and healthier skin by the end of it. However, while you rely on DIY remedies, a try-and-test approach or cues from online beauty tutorials, you could go too fast, too soon without creating the right cocktail of skincare ingredients for your concern. Dr Kiran Sethi, MD—integrative skin and wellness specialist and medical director of Isya Aesthetics, Delhi—details the crucial elements required for everything that might ail you—skin wise, at least—so you can add new products to cart. 

If you're struggling with dull skin

1. 1

   You'll want to try Vitamin C, ferulic acid and Vitamin E in the morning. This potent antioxidant punch helps prevent sun, pollution and stress-related damage of the skin that results in the dullness.

2. 2

   Look for mica particles in your products—they reflect light better than others.

3. 3

   Alpha hydroxy acids improve turnover while smoothening and brightening the skin. Rough skin, with dead skin cells on top look dull, whereas smooth skin can reflect light better off off the cell surface.

Your issue is open pores and acne

1. 1

   Apply Vitamin C in the AM—this will help prevent UV-related damage that can worsen collagen breakdown.

2. 2

   Make a mask with bentonite clay or multani mitti as the clay helps soak up excess oil on the surface of the skin, thereby reducing pore obstruction.

3. 3

   Add retinol to your night routine to increase cell turnover and ratchet up collagen and elastin creation.

4. 4

   Reach for salicylic acid to reduce the production of sebum, which then helps to decrease pore-clogging bacteria on the surface of the skin too. Salicylic acid can go deep into the pores to break up the oil and clear it.

You want to fight premature ageing

1. 1

   Vitamin C and ferulic acid prevent oxidative damage, so they are able to reduce collagen breakdown. They work best when applied together, as the latter stabilises the former while increasing photo protection.

2. 2

   Sunscreen is key for this skin issue, as the sun's rays causes collagen breakdown and photo-damage.

3. 3

   Retinol has a collagen-boosting effect in two ways. They promote the production of it, while reducing the production of collagenase (the substance that breaks down collagen). Bakuchiol is an alternative that is gentler on the skin.

4. 4

   Copper peptides are great in a mist or cream, and are known to boost collagen by signalling the cells to create the base protein.

If you're combatting pigmentation issues

1. 1

   Vitamin C and ferulic acid, as well as sunscreen help to reduce melanin synthesis while preventing further pigmentation, making them non-negotiable additions to the routine.

2. 2

   Alpha Arbutin or liquorice extract, which are safer but still potent alternative to hydroquinone. They help lighten cells and inhibit the production of melanin without the risk of affecting the skin nearby.

3. 3

   AHAs and retinol can help resurface the skin, forcing new, healthy skin cells up to the surface while making sure that the old pigmented skin is sloughed away.

Also read:

This might be the most potent skincare ingredient in fighting wrinkles

7 ways you can increase skin collagen production

What you need to know about treating hyperpigmentation on Indian skin