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Beauty
Here’s what you need to know about trying chemical peels at home
Since in-clinic pore-clearing and skin-brightening peels are off the table right now, here's how you can keep your maintenance up from the comfort of your bed
As skin ages, it loses the ability to renew dead skin cells as efficiently as before. This is where chemical peels come in, as the good guys peeling off the top layer of the skin to reveal healthy, baby-smooth skin underneath. With movement currently restricted during the global pandemic, you can substitute your usual visit to the dermat’s chair with an at-home chemical peel. Nervous? You shouldn’t be. While chemical peels usually get a bad rap for being aggressive, at-home peels are designed to be gentle on the skin. To assuage any further concerns about using one at home, we got a skin expert to answer all the questions you’ve ever had about chemical peels. Here’s what we learned.
What are at-home chemical peels?
“An at-home chemical peel is a powerful chemical exfoliator. It works by exfoliating the top layers of skin (the stratum corneum), shedding dead cell build-up and triggering new healthier skin cells to take their place. It is more effective than a physical exfoliator that can be harsh and damaging to the skin if not used properly,” explains Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder of Mumbai-based Yavana Aesthetics Clinic.
If you’ve been hesitant to try a chemical peel at home, she confirms that there isn’t any cause for worry. “As compared to the in-clinic peels, the concentrations of at-home alternatives are low and gentle, working on improving the skin texture and tone gradually. There are new, gentle formulations which are efficacious for targeting multiple skin problems, such as mild acne, fine lines and blemishes. The Drunk Elephant TLC Sukari Babyfacial and Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Ultra Gentle Peel make for an effective addition to your skincare shelf,” she says.
What to keep in mind when picking at-home chemical peels
It is important to take your skin type into consideration when shopping for chemical peels. “Oily to combination skin responds better to alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and beta hydroxy acid (BHA), the former works by dissolving the skin cells’ glue and stimulating new collagen production, while the latter is effective in dissolving the sebum build-up collection along with the dead cells for unclogging the pores,” says Dr Agarwal. “Dry to sensitive skin works better with polyhdroxy acids and mandelic acid as they are larger molecules. Lactic acid is also known to hydrate the skin at a lower concentration.” For those with super sensitive skin, enzyme peels are a good call. Look for those with ingredients like bromelain derived from pineapple, papain from papaya, pomegranate extract, blueberries and strawberry. These are highly effective in reducing dead skin build-up and making the skin smoother.
How should you prep skin?
Prep your skin for the peel by cleansing your face thoroughly to remove makeup and any product or environmental residue from the face. “Avoid using physical exfoliators, such as scrubs or toners to aggressively cleanse your face before the peel as it may end up irritating the skin barrier and easily cause harm from the peel applied later," confirms Dr Agarwal. Reach for gentle cleansers containing oat extract, aloe vera gel and glycerin to soothe the skin before you use the home peel. Additionally, it is advisable to avoid products containing AHAs, BHAs, retinols and similar alcohol or acidic preparations at least a week before the peel.
Certain aftercare is called for after using a chemical peel too. A broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF30 and vigilant protection from the sun and heat is extremely essential. Use a calming moisturising lotion or cream enriched with ceramides, along serums containing gentle active ingredients such as antioxidants, hyaluronic acids and peptides as these will penetrate the skin better after an at-home home peel.
Here's what to stay away from when you use a chemical peel at home
Doctors suggest staying away from peels containing trichloroacetic acid, phenolic acid and retinols as these are deep peel agents and can cause more harm than good when not used by medical professionals. “Do a patch test first, behind the ear (when the skin is structurally similar to that on the face), and let it sit before using it on the whole face. The risk of post-peel burns is higher for Indian skin because hyperpigmentation is high and it persists for a longer duration,” she confirms.
Trying to go full speed on peels can cause more harm than good. When you opt for peels frequently, you disturb your skin’s natural pH levels and increase the reactivity. “Don’t try to treat multiple skin issues at the same time with different peels in the duration of one week as it is a recipe for disaster. Instead, you can use a single peel containing multiple ingredients in low concentrations to treat multiple issues,” advises Dr Agarwal.
Also read:
What you need to know about treating hyperpigmentation on Indian skin
3 at-home DIY face peels that will leave you with glowing skin
