To ad-lib Pride & Prejuidce: “It is a truth universally acknowledged that a designer (in India) to be in possession of a good fortune must be in want of a bride.” For years, bridal fashion has been the proverbial cash cow for Indian designers. Now, as wedding industry and the whole idea of the big, fat desi wedding is in a rethink, the wedding fashion industry is also looking to reinvent
But couturiers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla are hopeful as they say, “At this moment, we are still extremely busy imagining, ideating and sketching new collections. This lockdown will end, restrictions on weddings and gatherings will ease. And our appetite for beauty and celebration will return.”
CLASSICS WILL RETURN
Most of the couture in India is driven by the wedding industry. The grand dame of Indian fashion Ritu Kumar says, “It’s tough to predict the new landscape of wedding fashion but the new wedding wear would be more classic.” She feels there will be a return to the 90s when simpler, more value for money styles with multiple wearability were the norm. Kumar adds, “As a culture, we save. And the thinking process of the consumer would go back to value for money. People will be far more conservative in spending.” People are also demanding sustainable wedding fashion.
(Ritu Kumar)
RETURN OF HAND-CRAFTED
Jani-Khosla say that in India, there has been a culture for cherishing and revering the hand-crafted. Khosla adds, “The wealth that is our artisans and karigars, our techniques, textiles is unsurpassed. It is a well we will continue to draw inspiration from. Also budgets should never mean one forgoes beauty or excellence.” Designers contend that there will be more mindful spending.
WELCOME TO THE INSTAGRAM WEDDING
For quite some time now, wedding industry has been following the design sensibility that makes for a well-photographed wedding. Now fashion too has to be ready for a digital makeover especially as the wedding sizes go micro with no more than 40 guests. Demand for clothes that photograph well is the way forward.
(Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla)
LIKE MOTHER, LIKE DAUGHTER
Heirlooms and pre-loved wedding clothes are going to be a big trend. Kumar says that your dream wedding outfit might be lying in your mom’s closet and adds, “The conservative bridal outfit will return.” Think conservative colours, restrained embroidery and simpler looks. As Jani says, “A smaller wedding can and will be a thing of absolute beauty. One keeps it intimate, fewer people and functions. But there is no holding back on the details, the finesse, the style.”
LESSONS LEARNED
Kumar is sure that going forward there will be a change in fashion cycles. “Of late, we were enamoured by the seasonal ups and downs of Europe. Now there will be a move towards not only wearing Indian but also customising things suited to us and our weather.” And it’s a truth universally acknowledged we Indians love our desi weddings and that might be the good news the fashion world awaits.
Thumb image: Ritu Kumar
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