Cancelled fashion weeks give rise to virtual shows, digital campaigns and more

The novel coronavirus chased the fashion industry through Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks from mid-February to early March this year. The outbreak across Europe showed its effects at the autumn/winter 2020 shows with drops in attendance of dedicated FROWers and brands handing out preventative face masks to those present. In the following weeks, at first the industry mobilised for much-needed damage control with the resources at hand—turning facilities to produce sanitisers, surgical masks and preventive gear to fill the shortage, pledging support to healthcare and setting up funds.

While no one predicted a near-complete halt in the industry then, experts already began imagining a new digital environment. “I don’t see digital as less emotional; I see digital as an experience where you can push your dreams to the next level,” said Olivier Rousteing of Balmain on the future of fashion shows at Vogue Global Conversations. But Chloé’s Natacha Ramsay-Levi responded, “Fashion shows are special events, I believe...There’s a human dimension to it which I’m very keen to keep.” Perhaps the co-existence of both worlds would become the new norm, but until large gatherings aren’t threats to the population, brands open upto new channels of communication and creativity.

On April 14, Dior opened a guided tour of its record-breaking exhibition, Christian Dior, Designer of Dreams, virtually, in an hour-long free video on YouTube. And Carine Roitfeld conducted a star-studded fashion gathering on the same platform.

How Jacquemus, Valentino and others delivered spring/summer 2020 campaigns virtually

Valentino and Nintendo aren’t two words likely to be associated in the same sentence, but 2020 has opened up a new world of style. Their new simulation game, Animal Crossing: New Horizons, introduces a feature where players can customise their outfits and fashion enthusiasts quickly took note. It all began when fashion photographer Kara Chung began documenting in-game villagers’ designer outfits on her Instagram page which led to high-fashion collaborations. You can now shop from official Valentino’s 20-piece pre-fall collection or download codes for Marc Jacobs and GCDS clothing or pick outfits inspired by real-life Gucci, Rodarte, Dior runway looks.

Meanwhile, Simon Porte Jacquemus was working on an at-home fashion campaign—sans a crew— for his spring/summer 2020 collection and accessories. Bella Hadid and photographer Pierre-Ange Carlotti connected over FaceTime to capture the season’s linen suits, crop tops, bodysuit, sunglasses and of course, the Le grand Chiquito in leather.

The digital fashion week calendar

On May 1, French fashion editor Carine Roitfeld hosted a fashion show amidst the pandemic. The “first-of-its-kind” presentation was run “entirely from home” where the CR Runway brought together supermodels and designers (there was Karlie Kloss, Winnie Harlow, Miranda Kerr, Pierpaolo Piccioli and Virgil Abloh among many others) to raise funds. With over 230,000 views the 30-minute clip revealed both the shortcomings and potential of new-age shows. About four weeks earlier, Shanghai went all-virtual with their fashion week live streamed on multiple platforms. Having been ahead of the outbreak timeline with the rest of the world, the industry used green screen, augmented reality and visual effects to show real-life models in new designs that accumulated millions of views and large revenues.

While New York Fashion Week and couture shows have been indefinitely postponed, London will combine mens and womenswear in the same virtual space. Following in recovery, Italian and Parisian operations will gradually resume, a new fashion schedule will begin to take shape. Milano Fashion Week Digital has been announced for July 14 to 17—pushing its usual June spot—and will show both mens and pre-womenswear via immersive video content. However, in an unusual timeline, Paris collections will show virtually from July 9. Saint Laurent drew out of the conventional fashion schedule and instead, timed its collection launches based on the circumstances. "Saint Laurent will not present its collections in any of the pre-set schedules of 2020,” said the recent announcement on their Instagram handle.

The mode of presentation may be different, gatherings may be smaller but the fashion community is only getting bigger with ideas and creativity. Adapting to new technologies, the format of fashion is getting a cutting edge facelift. 

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