How Sagrika Rai built her brand, Warp ’n Weft on the enduring legacy of Benarasi weaves

A  walk around the Warp ’n Weft store with founder Sagrika Rai is nothing short of masterclass on Benarasi weaves. The expansive, two-storied space in Mumbai is peppered with dupattas, saris, lehengas, uncut cloth and even customised pieces that you could spend hours browsing through. “When a customer walks in, we take out the time to talk about all the different kinds of handloom weaves, so they understand what they are investing in. Brands like us have to take it upon ourselves to educate the consumers,” says Rai. 

The Benaras-born designer launched her label in 1997 at the young age of 26, and hasn’t looked back since. Growing up, Rai spent her after-school hours with her mother, who would sit with the karigars and explore new designs. This sparked the first seeds of passion in the designer. The brand has been working with the same family of craftspersons they started with, and have only expanded their numbers over the years. “In fact, the younger generation of weavers are coming with more education behind them, building a more technologically-supported artisan community that is stronger than ever before,” Rai reveals. 

With Rai’s daughter, Gaurika, joining forces with her mother, the second generation brings in a new wave of communication and marketing strategy for the two-decade-old brand. “We are excited for the many international collaborations coming our way and expanding our market share,” says Rai. 

Supporting local craft while relying on remote resources can be challenging. “There is a lot of risk because it’s all driven by man force and hand processes—including spinning of the yarns, dying in buckets, weaving and embroidering,” Rai concedes. “Each step of the process is a labour of love. There are limitations to each step with unforeseen weather, economical and political factors weighing in.”

Having raised her family with two children while helming her brand, Rai knows that maintaining a work-life balance is paramount. “I take pride in being one of the key contributors towards the conservation of Indian handloom. Of course, no success comes easy. It takes endless effort. Our weaves have stood the test of time. Our perseverance and disciplined work ethic has helped establish Benarasi as a statement of sustainable fashion, and I feel a constant work-life balance has helped all along.  It takes much conviction to position yourself as a successful female entrepreneur, and to stand for equality of opportunity, freedom of choice, and liberation through business. The one thing I would want for Gaurika—and the many girls her age who are dreaming big—is that they understand the responsibility that comes with following a passion. It definitely requires more effort and strength of mind,” she concludes.

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