Dilara Findikoglu on tackling mental health in her AW20 collection: “We don’t talk about it enough in fashion”

Dilara Findikoglu is something of a fashion anarchist. As an undergraduate student at Central Saint Martins, the London-based Turkish designer helped stage a guerrilla catwalk for students who didn’t get a place in the official 2015 press show. Two years later, during London Fashion week, she caused a stir once again by presenting a Satanic-themed collection in a church.

This season though, Findikoglu is taking a more introspective approach. “2019 was a difficult year for me mentally,” she tells Vogue from her north London studio. “I don't think we talk [enough] about mental health in fashion; there's a lot of pressure on [designers]. With every collection you need to prove yourself again, no matter how good your last collection was.”

Translated onto the catwalk, there are looks inspired by the “dark and light sides” of her brain – ranging from anxiety and insecurity to sisterhood and power. The result is an eclectic mix of styles, with Victorian corsets, cut-out dresses and statement headdresses all making an appearance. The finale look, named ‘Utopia’, is a dramatic silver sequin gown representing the “alien and otherworldly”. 

Findikoglu’s outlandish creations have found a cult following in the likes of Rihanna and Lady Gaga. Here she reveals how “natural” it felt to dress them, and explains the sustainable practices behind this season’s designs. 

What’s the story behind your AW20 collection?

“This collection is very personal for me – the inspiration this time is my own mental health. It’s a different approach because I'm looking in rather than [outwards]. 

“I always come up with characters in each collection and create [their] looks. Anxiety's a character in this collection, self-destruction is a character. The anxiety look is a T-shirt and trousers; being anxious is very common, so I wanted it to be a relatable look.”

Last season you estimated that 60 to 75 per cent of your pieces were sustainably made. Around what percentage is this collection? 

“Around the same; we used the same supplier in Turkey for deadstock this season. For most of the [one-off] pieces we’ve used fabric that we had in the studio. All the leather looks in the collection are deadstock too; I’ve made bags [for the first time] this season using deadstock leather. This season we’re going to donate all of our offcuts to a school; children are going to use them for their projects.”

You’re known for your bold, out-of-the-box shows. What can we expect this time?

“It's going to be a café set-up and everyone's going to be drinking wine. I wanted it to feel a bit like a salon show from the 1960s or 1970s, like early Yves Saint Laurent shows. The venue is a Victorian library; there’s definitely a theatrical element. Hopefully we’re going to get a cat as well…”

You’ve quickly gained a cult following since graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2015. What do you put your success down to? 

“I think just being who I am, which is difficult at times because it could be a bit too bold for some people. At the same time, listening to who I am, rather than listening to other people's opinions too much, is very important.” 

How does it feel to dress celebrities like Rihanna, Madonna and Lady Gaga? 

“Natural! Madonna was a different case because I grew up with her and I adore her. But it's not [generally] about me being a fan of them – it’s more like I knew there was going to be a connection. I love them because I know I can share something with them.” 

What’s next for you?

“Let's just get this [show] out the way first. I want to have fun after this collection. Party! That's my plan.”

Also read:

6 celebrities who have been refreshingly honest about battling mental illness

Katy Perry on fighting depression, finding meditation, and using her platform to steer change