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Fashion
As the BAFTAs encourages celebrities to dress consciously this year, we look at why awards season is actually the perfect eco-platform for vintage and sustainable fashion
Awards season is in full swing – and it seems that sustainability is currently taking over the red carpet. Jennifer Aniston revealed herself as a champion of vintage fashion in a Dior SS99 white satin dress at the SAGs this month; while Maggie Rogers proved her eco-credentials at the Grammys, in a pre-fall 2014 Chanel dress, complete with matching reusable water bottle. (Rogers is known for choosing hydration over handbags, she also carried a rhinestone Collina Strada bottle at the 2019 Billboard Women in Music event.)
Now, BAFTA has given all guests attending the awards a sustainable fashion guide, created by the London College of Fashion, as part of its wider sustainability efforts – which include making the ceremony carbon neutral.
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“Sustainability is very important to BAFTA, and we’re doing more than ever before,” the academy stated. “Where sustainable choices are unable to be made, BAFTA is offsetting, as well as giving guests the tools to offset their own travel and make sustainable fashion choices.”
There remains the question of whether major awards ceremonies can ever be truly sustainable, given the scale and level of travel involved. But opting for sustainable fashion on the red carpet is a no-brainer, particularly given the number of custom, one-off looks that are currently produced purely for awards season. With millions around the world tuning in to watch the events unfold, celebrities have a platform to influence others to make more eco-friendly choices.
It’s something that Livia Firth, founder of sustainability consultancy Eco-Age, realised a decade ago when she launched the Green Carpet Challenge. “We have proven beyond doubt that not only is [sustainable dressing on the red carpet] easy, but it’s also incredibly empowering to wear a story – and not only a brand,” she tells Vogue. “Now that we know it’s easy, why wouldn’t you do it?”
Following the Golden Globes, Stella McCartney revealed that Joaquin Phoenix (who is up for Best Actor at the Oscars for his role in Joker) is wearing the same tuxedo throughout awards season to highlight the issue of waste on the red carpet. Meanwhile, the likes of Cate Blanchett and the Duchess of Cambridge have both famously reworn past looks – although they still remain in the minority. One reason is that brands often loan out their dresses (a more eco-friendly option than creating a custom design), meaning that celebrities don’t necessarily keep hold of their red carpet gowns.
“It is rare to see celebrities rewearing outfits on the red carpet,” Firth comments, adding that the red carpet should be a place of inspiration. “It is a tricky one as we want to tell different, important stories about each look every time. The big change in re-wears and multiple wears has to happen in our everyday lives.”
Wearing vintage on the red carpet is another option, which has undoubtedly been on the rise over the past year: see Cardi B’s vintage Thierry Mugler shell dress at the 2019 Grammys; Gwyneth Paltrow in 1963 Valentino at the Emmy’s; and Rihanna wearing vintage 1990s Galliano at the Queen & Slim premiere in LA in November.
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William Vintage, which sourced Rihanna’s silk robe, has noticed a rise in requests of late. “There's definitely a growing global awareness of sustainability, so that's a big contribution to an increase in popularity,” says Marie Blanchet, CEO of the London-based boutique. “At the same time, there's an increasing desire to wear pieces that are one-of-a-kind. Wearing vintage means you're wearing a piece of fashion history and that's truly special.”
Awards ceremonies are also an opportunity for celebrities to support sustainable brands, as seen by the buzz around The Act’s Joey King wearing Dutch designer Iris van Herpen at the Golden Globes. “[Celebrities] have a global voice and impact; they inspire so many people all around the globe, so it is really important they embody the importance of sustainability,” van Herpen tells Vogue. “The red carpet is a place for the embodiment of our values and vision for the way we [want to] live.”
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Rising designer Kevin Germanier – who has dressed the likes of Kristen Stewart, Tracee Ellis Ross and Björk – turns upcycled materials (including deadstock Swarovski crystals) into red carpet-worthy creations. “Celebrities can make a point by wearing a sustainable dress on the red carpet,” he says. “I want to show that sustainability can be glamorous; it can be dazzling and colourful.”
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Ultimately, celebrities have the power to make sustainable dressing the norm. “Red carpets are a very powerful communication platform,” Firth concludes. “We [can] use them creatively and purposefully, and re-engage the consumer on what fashion should be.”
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