After a three-year sabbatical, JJ Valaya is set to make a comeback with a new couture collection

From Adele to Abhishek Bachchan, creative folk are no longer afraid to take sabbaticals to work on themselves and come out better at the end of it. Designer JJ Valaya is an excellent case in point among Indian couturiers. In 2016, he was attending some fashion shows in Delhi and came away highly uninspired. Despite being passionate couturier and revelling in his craft, he was no longer excited by creative evolution of couture. Instead, he was disappointed in what he felt was the then-prevalent attitude of trying too hard to keep up with the Joneses. The excitement he had felt at the beginning of his career, by stumbling upon new treasures like beads in the bazaar, the block printer in the gully, rich textiles and breathtaking handwork, had dimmed. “I had to face a harsh reality that after 25 years, I was bored of what I was seeing and quite honestly, of what I was doing as well,” says Valaya. “However, a quick hiatus, it turns out, is a wonderfully honest companion. It made me realise even more how intense my love affair with couture truly was. For me, couture is not just crafting clothing. It is a deeper emotion, an experience and a luxury; one that has the ability to alter how people feel about themselves. But it is also about being honest to oneself,” he adds.

His latest couture collection is an expression of this love affair. Inspired by a mystical Persia from the 16th to 19th century, the collection—titled Tabriz after the one-time capital of the grand empire—is an ode to arts and crafts of that region and has three distinct lines each revolving around a specific theme.

The first of the three lines comprising this collection is called Farsh, and draws inspiration from Persian hunting design carpets as well the Art Deco period. Think flowing ethereal garments in hues of midnight blue, teal and a golden mustard embellished with age-old crafts like metalwork, gota patti and vibrant threadwork. The second line is aptly named Naqshband, which means master craftsman. It channels the royal splendour through a floral pattern created in metallic threads and beads accentuated by delicately glittering borders, antiquated crystals and pearls. You’ll find silks, velvets and tulles in rich red tones and sage green hues in this line. And the third, Khayyam, has nomadic origins in Persia’s royal tent makers and channels their tribal aesthetic. Techniques like antique mirrorwork, rough cotton yarn and unusual appliqué are blended with signature Valaya prints. The palette for this line sticks to black, grey, and burgundy, and comes together to form a montage of raw yet refined elegance.

Valaya is not new to spinning stories that are larger than life. The brand’s decades old tag line, The Royal Nomad, still rings true amidst the finery of the upcoming show. The execution, however, ushers in a regal simplicity that will resonate with modern, luxury consumers. So now when someone asks JJ Valaya, “What’s going to be new?”, he simply smiles back and says, “Me.”

JJ Valaya

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