Muziris on your plate

KOCHI: Jars of pickle and chutneys line the live counter at Lila’s Kitchen, the exclusive restaurant of the newly opened Tribute Portfolio Hotel by Mariott. Named Port Muziris, the boutique hotel is adorned in earthy tones with a perceptible modern touch but its ethos harps to the yore. “The idea behind the tasting counter with the assortment of pickles is to transport diners back to their childhood and remind them of the ones made by their grandmothers. Back in the day, every household had two or three varieties on the dining table. We wanted to invoke that nostalgia,” says Ashok Eapen, executive chef of the hotel.

And nostalgia is what Lila’s Kitchen offers. Every dish on the menu of this quaint restaurant is an ode to the rich culinary history and tradition of the ancient port city of Muziris. “We have carefully curated the menu keeping in mind the food cultures of different communities within the 100-kilometre radius of the bygone city. The recipes have been preserved as they were, we want to give our diners the authentic and rustic taste of the past. For example, meen valla curry was a dish made by spice traders while on a voyage, they would catch the fish and prepare it fresh with minimum spices that were at disposal. We have recreated it as close to the original as possible,” says chef Ashok.

You are encouraged to start your dining experience by sampling all the pickled options on display. The sight of cut  pineapple soaked in brine will make your mouth water. Gobble a hearty piece or two but don’t miss the chicken and prawn pickle, spicy to the sight but easy on the tongue.

The service is a la carte, for starter choose mutton cutlet and chicken kizhi (chicken curry in banana pouch). The cutlet is just as it should be; hot, crispy and packed with flavour. The blend of the meat and the spice is seamless. The chicken kizhi comes cutely packed in a banana leaf pocket. The tiny chunks of meat are beguiling at first glance and look like coconut shavings. The decision to include the dish with the starters is interesting as it is primarily a curry but it works, signaling the initiation of a pleasing gastronomic journey.

The main course is a Malayali food lover’s delight. You can opt from a range of seafood and meat options. The pungent meen chatti valla curry pairs beautifully with the tart and fluffy thatu dosa. Sample the cloud-like appam with luscious mutton chops or Kerala parotta with erivulla malli kozhi curry made entirely with coriander paste.What is remarkable about the choice of items on the menu is that chef Ashok and his team have attempted to add a gourmet dazzle to erstwhile unsophisticated delicacies without stripping them of their authenticity.

For someone craving a truly traditional fare, the menu also includes vegetarian and non-vegetarian thali choices that come with nine different curries and a customised starter. The biryani is cooked in kizhi or banana pouch adding that unique Kerala zest. Dessert is quintessentially native. Indulging in some hot ada pradhaman coupled with chilled elaneer pudding (made with tender coconut), you will realise is the only way to end what has been a delectable feast.