Restaurateur Fergus Henderson’s 1999 book, The Whole Beast: Nose To Tail Eating, may have been a reminder to cook the whole animal and may have brought sustainability on the radar; but in reality, this has been a part of several ancient cultures globally, including India.

Our ancestors, never wasted as much as we do and no cut of animal was considered lesser than the other. Sorpotel and moethen, Goa’s unique and favourite meat dishes, have always used the whole animal. Bred humanely and fed well, families were aware of what the animal was eating and didn’t hesitate to use it. In fact, most Goan households still use the entire animal — blissfully ignorant of the term nose-to-tail. The concept reflects across communities.

Chef Joel Basumatary of Nagaland informs, “In Nagaland, be it a wedding or anniversary, a pig, raised by the family, is slaughtered to make dishes such as thevochu nounya, puokhru, puomeu, gacha (pork with intestine, brain and tongue) from the whole animal. Earlier, the whole mithun (gayal), was used; the village head would offer it to the head of a warring village as a token of peace. Nowadays, only the wealthy cook this for weddings.”

In Mumbai, Bohri Mohalla offers surti bara handi, which comprises 12 handis or vessels sunk in the ground, each with a different ingredient. Nihari (stew), two vessels having payas (mutton trotters), pichota (the rump and tail of the animal), sookha (thicker cut of meat with gravy) and nalli (bone marrow), are relished with a khameeri roti. Bengalis too, prepare muri ghonto using both the head and tail of rohu.

Similarly in Chettinad cuisine, there’s thalai maas (cooked using the animal’s head: brains, eyes, tongue all included) and ratha kootu (a dal made using the animal’s blood). Nothing goes wasted.

Today, this concept is more relevant, as people realise the need to save the planet and promote sustainability. Being sustainable, is also about reducing waste and using as much of the animal or vegetable, as possible.

Chef Siddharth Kashyap, of The Boston Butt, Mumbai, says, “The nose-to-tail concept is old-school. Back then, consuming popular meat cuts, was a luxury, and tougher, bolder-flavoured parts were consumed by the rest. Running a charcuterie along with a smokehouse, makes this possible for us. Sustainability and conscious consumption are needed, and one must make popular and fast-moving products on one’s menu sustainable.”

Not just the whole hog

While the pig naturally comes to mind when talking of the nose-to-tail concept, as it is commonly used, Thomas Zacharias, executive chef and partner at The Bombay Canteen, explains, “For Eid, we wanted to celebrate the goat, in our own fun way, through a community-style dinner that incorporates every part of the animal. Our nose-to-tail feast showcased a dozen different parts of the animal, through dishes inspired from 12 different regions and communities across India. From the tongue to the udder and from Kashmir to Tamil Nadu, this was an ode to our collective travels across India. We served Kerala-style tongue pepper fry taco, an East Indian kapoora fugia, mutton sorpotel and even a malpua with goat cheese ice-cream.”

Furthermore, while meat may be the basic tenet of the philosophy, Chef Gresham Fernandes, culinary director, Impresario, uses an entire fish, too. He uses puréed fish eye to give depth of flavour to sauces and fried fish scales as toppings.

Interestingly, root-to-shoot is the vegetarian version, and chefs feel, this means ensuring no part of the plant is wasted. Says Thomas, “I use every edible part of the pumpkin plant. Bharta with the flesh, pickled pumpkin skin, sautéed leaves, pumpkin seeds and fried fritters with the flower.”

Know the source

Chefs unanimously agree that knowing how the animal is bred and its source, is crucial. Handling the lesser-known cuts creatively, to entice diners, is secondary.

Kashyap cautions, “Chefs must be careful while procuring raw offal and other slow-moving cuts, by making sure the suppliers and their meat source are trusted. Build a rapport with your local butcher or supplier.”

Thomas agrees. “I trust my suppliers and our diners trust us. Because I know the source, I can afford to experiment. Careful handling of these cuts, is important. But, for me, it is not about one creative dish. The entire meal has to come together and flow in a certain manner. It cannot be contrived.”

Changing mindset

While there is a distinct appeal for the choicest cuts of meat by carnivores, at best they relish a paya (lamb trotters soup) and a bheja fry; most are reluctant to try the lesser-known cuts. Chef Gresham admits, “It is a mindset. Not everyone is adventurous enough to try these dishes, and so these can never be on a regular menu. Pop-ups and community dinners, of a small group of like-minded people, like our Swine Dine supper club, are the best options.”

Such community dinners, where the whole animal is used, are slowly growing. Kashyap quips, “There is a small group, that does not mind being adventurous with bold flavours, provided these are paired with the right accompaniments, flavoured and well-presented.”

Smoke House Deli has been hosting Swine Dine community suppers, with pork, in Bengaluru, Delhi, and in Mumbai at St Jude Bakery for a while.

Gresham feels these allow him the creative licence for culinary experimentation, that the traditional restaurant format does not. From pork galouti to everything haleem, made using offal, a pork biryani and the forbidden fruit, an entire green apple stuffed with pork pate, Gresham unleashes his creativity.

In Bengaluru, Kanishka Sharma, Founder, The Tenth Muse, which curates gourmet meals, recently organised a pop-up, The Whole Beast, using the nose-to-tail concept.