Lap the lapel

The Victorian era was arguably the most exciting time in history considering fashion. With the mass production of sewing machines in the 1850s, there came a passion to experiment with clothing, for both men and women. 

Menswear saw a number of styles for coats and jackets — there were specific styles for different occasions like socialising, attending a dinner or going to the theatre. These distinctions were made by different patterns. But the one thing that remained constant were lapels. Men’s coats and jackets were designed with varying structures of lapels to differentiate its purpose. And now lapels have made its way into womenswear too. While some see this as a step towards equality in terms of power and position in society, others feel it’s about time this categorisation of what elements must be distinctly featured in menswear or womenswear is dissolved. Gender fluidity is the trend of the hour, and designers are taking this opportunity to bring feminism not only to the runway but also onto the streets. 

In her latest collection titled What Is Real?, Bhaavya Bhatnagar explores the idea of lapels in women’s clothing. About her obsession with the format, she says, “I’ve always loved juxtaposing elements of menswear tailoring with fluid feminine forms. I believe that lapels on slithery silk shirts in this collection add an essence of structure to romantic silhouettes and colours.”

Her collection embodies the concept of blurred reality, or a parallel world which is a dreamscape that seeps into the present. Inspired by this outlook, Bhatnagar has converted her artwork into digital prints on luxe silks, swim separates and fluid forms. “The inspiration for this collection brewed over time, when a blurred outlook on life as we know it, collided with an internal attempt to look beyond conformity,” says the designer, adding, “Reminiscent of beach side sunsets and a sparkling summer romance, the collection translates feelings of nostalgia, warmth and dreamy surrealism into design stories that are timeless and versatile.”

Blurring lines indeed, the lapels, which have masculine connotations, have been restructured artistically to suit the female form. “Lapels add a sense of structure to fluid silhouettes drawing attention to the neck and collarbones. They are powerful yet romantic,” says Bhatnagar, adding that lapels add to the element of gender fluidity in fashion. “Lapels represent a beautiful coexistence of androgyny and femininity,” she shares. 

Contrary to traditional lapels on menswear, the designer experiments with lapels on delicate fabrics. “Lapels in fabrics with body definitely look sharp and powerful, but in fluid fabrics like silk satins, tulle and organza, their appeal shifts towards a sense of structure that is ethereal,” she says, adding, “Soft lapels on silks and textured sheer fabrics retain elements of lightness while adding structure to forms. Deep V necklines with lapels are sensual yet modest.” 

Instead of wearing lapels on coats and blazers, women can sport this detail on blouses paired with formal or even casual bottoms for a chic look. “I love wearing shirts with lapels with coordinates trousers,” says the designer. When asked how can one decide what sort of lapels would look good on them, considering bust size and width/length of lapels, she says, “Lapels suit most body types, with the V neckline complimenting fuller bust sizes.”