10 Top Trees to Grow in Containers
These container-friendly trees make great specimens for pots on the patio or marking an entrance
Lauren Dunec Hoang
May 28, 2019
Houzz Contributor. Landscape designer, a former garden editor for Sunset Magazine and in-house designer for Sunset's Editorial Test Garden. Her garden designs have been featured in the Sunset Western Garden Book of Landscaping, Sunset Western Garden Book of Easy-Care Plantings (cover), Inhabitat, and POPSUGAR.
Houzz Contributor. Landscape designer, a former garden editor for Sunset Magazine... More
There are plenty of reasons to grow a tree in a large container. For urban gardens and those with little outdoor space, a potted tree can make a small terrace feel more like a garden and, if you plant a fig or lemon, provide you with fruit as well. In larger gardens, potted trees add drama with their stature and act as striking focal points on the patio or when placed on either side of an entryway.
When choosing your tree, use the same criteria as you would for choosing any other plant: Select a variety that will thrive in your climate and with the light exposure and moisture of your site. However, growing trees in large pots comes with a few special considerations — not all trees are happy to grow in containers. There are plenty that tolerate it just fine, though. Read on for our top 10 choices.
When choosing your tree, use the same criteria as you would for choosing any other plant: Select a variety that will thrive in your climate and with the light exposure and moisture of your site. However, growing trees in large pots comes with a few special considerations — not all trees are happy to grow in containers. There are plenty that tolerate it just fine, though. Read on for our top 10 choices.
1. Citrus
Citrus of all kinds — most commonly lemons, limes, kumquats, oranges and tangerines — can be grown in large containers and make pretty accents on patios, in herb gardens or tucked into a garden bed. All citrus plants are frost-tender; in cold climates, plan on bringing the trees inside to a sunny window or greenhouse.
If citrus leaves begin to yellow or drop, it’s most likely a sign of nitrogen deficiency. Supplement watering with a weekly or bimonthly feeding of diluted organic fertilizer during the growing period to set up container-grown citrus for success.
Where it will grow: Hardy to 25 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 3.9 degrees Celsius (USDA zones 9 to 11; find your zone); in colder areas, plan on bringing the container indoors over winter
Water requirement: Moderate
Light requirement: Full sun
Mature size: Varies by species; dwarf citrus trees are particularly well-suited for containers
Shop for pots and planters on Houzz
Citrus of all kinds — most commonly lemons, limes, kumquats, oranges and tangerines — can be grown in large containers and make pretty accents on patios, in herb gardens or tucked into a garden bed. All citrus plants are frost-tender; in cold climates, plan on bringing the trees inside to a sunny window or greenhouse.
If citrus leaves begin to yellow or drop, it’s most likely a sign of nitrogen deficiency. Supplement watering with a weekly or bimonthly feeding of diluted organic fertilizer during the growing period to set up container-grown citrus for success.
Where it will grow: Hardy to 25 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 3.9 degrees Celsius (USDA zones 9 to 11; find your zone); in colder areas, plan on bringing the container indoors over winter
Water requirement: Moderate
Light requirement: Full sun
Mature size: Varies by species; dwarf citrus trees are particularly well-suited for containers
Shop for pots and planters on Houzz
2. Conifers
Evergreen conifers, such as pine, juniper, fir and cypress trees, make good container plants, offering year-round interest and structure on patios, terraces and balconies. All conifer require well-draining soil in a container, and most thrive in a spot with full sun.
Look for dwarf and slow-growing conifer varieties that stay much smaller and are naturally more well-suited for growing in containers. ‘Wilma Goldcrest’ Monterey cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa ‘Wilma Goldcrest’), for example, only reaches 3 feet tall and 18 inches wide when grown in a container.
Where it will grow: Hardiness varies by species; many fall in zones 3 to 8
Water requirement: Moderate
Light requirement: Full sun
Mature size: Varies widely by species; dwarf varieties are particularly well-suited for containers
Evergreen conifers, such as pine, juniper, fir and cypress trees, make good container plants, offering year-round interest and structure on patios, terraces and balconies. All conifer require well-draining soil in a container, and most thrive in a spot with full sun.
Look for dwarf and slow-growing conifer varieties that stay much smaller and are naturally more well-suited for growing in containers. ‘Wilma Goldcrest’ Monterey cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa ‘Wilma Goldcrest’), for example, only reaches 3 feet tall and 18 inches wide when grown in a container.
Where it will grow: Hardiness varies by species; many fall in zones 3 to 8
Water requirement: Moderate
Light requirement: Full sun
Mature size: Varies widely by species; dwarf varieties are particularly well-suited for containers
Fig trees can also be grown in containers indoors, as seen in this Dutch home.
3. Edible Fig
(Ficus carica)
Figs trees are prized in Mediterranean courtyards. Their large, lobed leaves cast deep shade, the gnarled branches are attractive year-round and, in early summer and again in fall, they bear tasty fruits.
Figs grow well in containers as long as they have plenty of sun and consistent water, but expect plants to stay smaller and set fewer fruits than those grown in gardens.
Figs planted in climates with a long, hot summer, and given plenty of water, bear the sweetest and juiciest fruits. Sure, they make a mess if they drop onto the patio, but it’s worth it.
Where it will grow: Hardy to 5 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 15 degrees Celsius (zones 7 to 9); some varieties are hardy down to minus 5 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 20.6 degrees Celsius (Zone 6)
Water requirement: Moderate for garden use; high for tastier fruits
Light requirement: Full sun
Mature size: Up to 25 feet tall and wide; easily kept smaller in a container with pruning
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3. Edible Fig
(Ficus carica)
Figs trees are prized in Mediterranean courtyards. Their large, lobed leaves cast deep shade, the gnarled branches are attractive year-round and, in early summer and again in fall, they bear tasty fruits.
Figs grow well in containers as long as they have plenty of sun and consistent water, but expect plants to stay smaller and set fewer fruits than those grown in gardens.
Figs planted in climates with a long, hot summer, and given plenty of water, bear the sweetest and juiciest fruits. Sure, they make a mess if they drop onto the patio, but it’s worth it.
Where it will grow: Hardy to 5 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 15 degrees Celsius (zones 7 to 9); some varieties are hardy down to minus 5 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 20.6 degrees Celsius (Zone 6)
Water requirement: Moderate for garden use; high for tastier fruits
Light requirement: Full sun
Mature size: Up to 25 feet tall and wide; easily kept smaller in a container with pruning
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4. Japanese Maple
(Acer palmatum)
Japanese maples make lovely container plants. Their delicate foliage practically shimmers when placed in a bright spot on a terrace. Many varieties, like ‘Crimson Queen’ and ‘Orangeola’, have spectacular fall foliage.
Choose a generous container for potting up a Japanese maple, and move it into a spot that receives full sun in cooler areas and afternoon shade in hotter areas. These delicate trees grow best without much exposure to wind — if you’re growing on a patio or balcony, choose a sheltered area for the tree. Keep the soil in the container consistently moist.
Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 15 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 26.1 degrees Celsius (zones 5 to 8)
Water requirement: Moderate
Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade; shelter from baking sunlight
Mature size: Varies by species; up to 20 feet tall and wide; easily kept smaller in a container with pruning
See 11 Japanese maples with beautiful color and form
(Acer palmatum)
Japanese maples make lovely container plants. Their delicate foliage practically shimmers when placed in a bright spot on a terrace. Many varieties, like ‘Crimson Queen’ and ‘Orangeola’, have spectacular fall foliage.
Choose a generous container for potting up a Japanese maple, and move it into a spot that receives full sun in cooler areas and afternoon shade in hotter areas. These delicate trees grow best without much exposure to wind — if you’re growing on a patio or balcony, choose a sheltered area for the tree. Keep the soil in the container consistently moist.
Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 15 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 26.1 degrees Celsius (zones 5 to 8)
Water requirement: Moderate
Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade; shelter from baking sunlight
Mature size: Varies by species; up to 20 feet tall and wide; easily kept smaller in a container with pruning
See 11 Japanese maples with beautiful color and form
5. Olive
(Olea europaea)
These Mediterranean natives make dignified container trees and are perfect for setting an Italian, French or Spanish theme on an outdoor terrace. Olives are naturally shallow-rooting, compared to other trees their size, and a mature olive — gnarled branches and all — can live happily in a container for years if given the right care.
Be sure to start with a good-sized container for mature trees; plant in well-draining soil in a sunny location. Give consistent moisture and, in cold climates, shelter in winter. To avoid cleaning up an oily fruit drop, choose a fruitless olive variety like ‘Swan Hill’.
Where it will grow: Hardy to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 9.4 degrees Celsius (zones 8 to 10)
Water requirement: Moderate
Light requirement: Full sun
Mature size: Can grow to reach 20 to 30 feet tall and 15 to 25 feet wide; easily kept smaller in a container with pruning
(Olea europaea)
These Mediterranean natives make dignified container trees and are perfect for setting an Italian, French or Spanish theme on an outdoor terrace. Olives are naturally shallow-rooting, compared to other trees their size, and a mature olive — gnarled branches and all — can live happily in a container for years if given the right care.
Be sure to start with a good-sized container for mature trees; plant in well-draining soil in a sunny location. Give consistent moisture and, in cold climates, shelter in winter. To avoid cleaning up an oily fruit drop, choose a fruitless olive variety like ‘Swan Hill’.
Where it will grow: Hardy to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 9.4 degrees Celsius (zones 8 to 10)
Water requirement: Moderate
Light requirement: Full sun
Mature size: Can grow to reach 20 to 30 feet tall and 15 to 25 feet wide; easily kept smaller in a container with pruning
6. Palo Verde
(Parkinsonia spp.)
A perfect tree for a container in a desert or low-water garden, palo verde forms a canopy of fine branches and tiny leaves to cast dappled shade over a patio. From April to June, depending on variety, the branches are covered in clusters of small yellow flowers that attract pollinators.
Plant in a quick-draining cactus and succulent mix, and avoid overwatering these desert natives. Some palo verde species have spiny branches; if you choose one of these, be sure to place the pot away from foot traffic.
Where it will grow: Hardy to 25 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 3.9 degrees Celsius (zones 9 to 10)
Water requirement: Low
Light requirement: Full sun
Mature size: Varies by species, from 15 to 30 feet tall and wide; easily kept smaller in a container with pruning
(Parkinsonia spp.)
A perfect tree for a container in a desert or low-water garden, palo verde forms a canopy of fine branches and tiny leaves to cast dappled shade over a patio. From April to June, depending on variety, the branches are covered in clusters of small yellow flowers that attract pollinators.
Plant in a quick-draining cactus and succulent mix, and avoid overwatering these desert natives. Some palo verde species have spiny branches; if you choose one of these, be sure to place the pot away from foot traffic.
Where it will grow: Hardy to 25 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 3.9 degrees Celsius (zones 9 to 10)
Water requirement: Low
Light requirement: Full sun
Mature size: Varies by species, from 15 to 30 feet tall and wide; easily kept smaller in a container with pruning
7. Privet
(Ligustrum spp.)
Privet make excellent topiary plants, grown either in the ground or in containers. For formal or cottage-style gardens, try growing privet in pots trained into standard trees or trimmed into pyramids or globes. Small-leaved privets, including California privet (L. ovalifolium) and European privet (L. vulgare), are the species most commonly grown in gardens, and both thrive in containers in full sun to partial shade.
Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 31.7 degrees Celsius (zones 4 to 7)
Water requirement: Moderate; low once established
Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade
Mature size: Can grow to about 10 to 15 feet tall and 8 to 15 feet wide; easily kept smaller in a container with pruning
Caution: Privet can be invasive in parts of the Midwest and Western U.S.; check with your local nursery before planting. Privet stems and leaves can be toxic to pets if ingested.
(Ligustrum spp.)
Privet make excellent topiary plants, grown either in the ground or in containers. For formal or cottage-style gardens, try growing privet in pots trained into standard trees or trimmed into pyramids or globes. Small-leaved privets, including California privet (L. ovalifolium) and European privet (L. vulgare), are the species most commonly grown in gardens, and both thrive in containers in full sun to partial shade.
Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 31.7 degrees Celsius (zones 4 to 7)
Water requirement: Moderate; low once established
Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade
Mature size: Can grow to about 10 to 15 feet tall and 8 to 15 feet wide; easily kept smaller in a container with pruning
Caution: Privet can be invasive in parts of the Midwest and Western U.S.; check with your local nursery before planting. Privet stems and leaves can be toxic to pets if ingested.
8. Southern Magnolia
(Magnolia grandiflora)
Plant a southern magnolia in a large container where you have plenty of vertical space for a tree to grow — they can easily reach 10 feet tall, or more, in a container. The two-sided leaves — with one side velvety bronze and the other a deep, glossy green — make an excellent contrast to pale foliage and light walls.
Keep soil moist and cut branches often to help control size.
Where it will grow: Hardy to 5 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 15 degrees Celsius (zones 7 to 9)
Water requirement: Moderate
Light requirement: Full to partial sun
Mature size: Varies by species; can grow up to 80 feet tall and 50 feet wide in the landscape; easily kept closer to 10 feet tall in a container with pruning
(Magnolia grandiflora)
Plant a southern magnolia in a large container where you have plenty of vertical space for a tree to grow — they can easily reach 10 feet tall, or more, in a container. The two-sided leaves — with one side velvety bronze and the other a deep, glossy green — make an excellent contrast to pale foliage and light walls.
Keep soil moist and cut branches often to help control size.
Where it will grow: Hardy to 5 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 15 degrees Celsius (zones 7 to 9)
Water requirement: Moderate
Light requirement: Full to partial sun
Mature size: Varies by species; can grow up to 80 feet tall and 50 feet wide in the landscape; easily kept closer to 10 feet tall in a container with pruning
9. Sweet Bay
(Laurus nobilis)
The same laurel that produces culinary bay leaves also makes a tidy accent tree that can be grown in a large container. Frequent clipping of the outer 6 inches of the branches helps maintain the form of the tree, encouraging the plant to stay small, full and bushy. Hang clipped twigs to dry, or give them away in bundles to friends or neighbors.
Position the potted tree where it will receive full sun to partial shade, and water consistently.
Where it will grow: Hardy to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 9.4 degrees Celsius (zones 8 to 11)
Water requirement: Moderate
Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade
Mature size: Ultimately up to 40 feet tall and wide; easily kept smaller in a container with pruning
(Laurus nobilis)
The same laurel that produces culinary bay leaves also makes a tidy accent tree that can be grown in a large container. Frequent clipping of the outer 6 inches of the branches helps maintain the form of the tree, encouraging the plant to stay small, full and bushy. Hang clipped twigs to dry, or give them away in bundles to friends or neighbors.
Position the potted tree where it will receive full sun to partial shade, and water consistently.
Where it will grow: Hardy to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 9.4 degrees Celsius (zones 8 to 11)
Water requirement: Moderate
Light requirement: Full sun or partial shade
Mature size: Ultimately up to 40 feet tall and wide; easily kept smaller in a container with pruning
Marta Rojas
10. Witch Hazel
(Hamamelis spp.)
Witch hazels are deciduous trees, grown mainly for their late-winter to early-spring blooms. Tiny buds open on bare branches, unfurling to reveal strange, fringy flowers that feature a lovely fragrance. Some varieties bloom as early as fall in mild climates.
Plant in a large container placed in full sun to partial shade along a walkway or in a small patio, where flower fragrance can be appreciated up close.
Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 15 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 26.1 degrees Celsius (zones 5 to 8)
Water requirement: Moderate
Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade
Mature size: 10 to 20 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide; easily kept smaller in a container with pruning
(Hamamelis spp.)
Witch hazels are deciduous trees, grown mainly for their late-winter to early-spring blooms. Tiny buds open on bare branches, unfurling to reveal strange, fringy flowers that feature a lovely fragrance. Some varieties bloom as early as fall in mild climates.
Plant in a large container placed in full sun to partial shade along a walkway or in a small patio, where flower fragrance can be appreciated up close.
Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 15 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 26.1 degrees Celsius (zones 5 to 8)
Water requirement: Moderate
Light requirement: Full sun to partial shade
Mature size: 10 to 20 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide; easily kept smaller in a container with pruning
Care Tips for Growing Trees in Containers
- Put the right plant in the right place. As with any plant, choosing a variety that thrives in your climate, sun and moisture level is the only way to ensure it will thrive in your garden. With container-grown plants, you have the advantage of being able to move them. If the first placement isn’t working (not enough sun, for example), move the plant to another spot.
- Choose dwarf varieties, if available. In general, smaller trees make better varieties for containers. If you see dwarf hybrids of trees that are not on this list, such as dwarf apples, gingko and others, they may make good container plants. Ask for advice at your nursery before buying a tree to grow in a container.
- Start with a large container. Once you bring a potted tree home from the nursery, repot it into a larger container than it came in. Grow a tree in the largest container you can, aiming for a soil depth of at least 2 to 3 feet. Make sure the container has a drainage hole.
- Watering. Plants grown in containers dry out more quickly than those planted in garden beds. Set up a consistent watering schedule for your potted tree to give it the water it needs; better yet, put it on a timed drip irrigation system.
- Fertilizing. Trees grown in the same container for many years can deplete the nutrients in the soil and run out of the ones they need. This is particularly common with citrus, which are all heavy nitrogen feeders. Regularly fertilize potted trees during the active growing season with a diluted solution of organic fertilizer.
- Rotating. If you’re growing a potted tree against a wall or fence, chances are one side receives less sun than the other. Rotate trees once a month (pots on wheels make it much easier) if maintaining an even form is a priority.
- Repotting. If you’ve grown a tree in the same container for multiple years, or if the tree shows signs of stress (yellowing leaves or dieback), it may be time to repot. To do so, choose a new container that’s at least a few inches wider and deeper than the existing pot. Remove the tree, root ball and all, from the existing pot, prune the roots and place it in the new pot filled with fresh potting soil. Soak to water.
- Root pruning. Any plants grown for multiple seasons in the same container are at risk of becoming pot-bound, the condition when roots circle around the interior wall of the pot, ultimately forming a mass of roots. While you’re repotting, take advantage of the tree being out of a pot to prune the roots. Using sterilized pruning shears, cut back all outer roots about an inch deep into the root ball, particularly any that have formed ropes or masses in the shape of the pot. This can help prevent the plant from becoming pot-bound and reinvigorate feeder root growth.
- Planting out. If a potted tree has lived in a container for multiple years and is starting to outgrow the container or your patio size, it may be time to plant the tree out into the garden. You can plant a tree at any time of year, apart from when it’s very hot out or the ground is frozen, but the warm soil and increased rain in fall make the autumn season a great time to plant. Choose a spot in the yard with the right light exposure for the type of tree and where it will have plenty of room to grow to its mature size. (Remember, trees stay smaller in containers. Once they’re planted out, expect them to reach full size.) If you have limited space, you can also offer the tree to a neighbor or check for local tree donation organizations.
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Great article, thanks. I would like to quickly sing the praises of Japanese Maples as potted plants. For context: I live closer to the Arctic than probably anyone reading this, so very extreme, prolonged winter is the norm up here. Non-frost season is 3 months long. It's just horrible. The miracle: Following the anti-Japanese Maple advice of a nativist cold North gardening guru, thought I was mercy-killing my little red Japanese Maple by putting it in the basement all winter (That's 8 months.) with no (0) watering. For sheer experimentation, I stuck outside what I thought was its little corpse before I left for a spring month in Hawaii. I come back to Hades, and there it is in its pot in the backyard, and it's...BEAUTIFUL. The little red Japanese maple is raging. Now I am in love with it.
I'm rather surprised that no palms were mentioned. I have about a dozen of them outside in my KY landscape in pots, and quite a few more in the greenhouse.
One aspect this article glosses over is that containers are very challenging in cold areas. They freeze and thaw more readily than the earth, which stresses the plants. Consequently, the sone ratings are often off. I’m in zone 5 and almost no tree, including zone 5 trees, can survive a winter here unless the container is insulated, very large, and mulched heavily (for insulation on the top), and even then they may need watering in winter (when it’s cold but not below freezing). This is not the stuff of a novice gardener, it takes dedication.