Arrive
I hum Billy Joel’s ‘Goodnight Saigon’ as my plane descends into Ho Chi Minh City. Formerly known as Saigon, this is Vietnam’s largest city. My taxi winds its way past several high-rise buildings, and with the sapping humidity to boot, I wonder if I’ve landed in Mumbai instead. By evening, as the mercury dips, it’s time to unwind at the terrace of the hostel I have checked into, with beer, jazz, and a round of introductions with fellow backpackers.
Day 1
9 am
After breakfast, I grab a bike, literally. ‘Grab’ bike taxis are the cheapest and fastest way to get around the organised chaos that is Vietnam’s traffic. War tourism is my priority, so I head straight to the War Remnants Museum. Tanks, helicopters, fighter jets, Howitzers left behind by the Americans are on display in the compound. The grimness of Vietnam’s past really hits you. Work your way down from the second floor for history in chronological order. It begins with the war of independence from the French and a comprehensive display of American involvement in the war, the war crimes, the iconic picture of the Napalm Girl, the effects of Agent Orange, and finally the peace-keeping efforts.
12 pm
After three intense hours at the museum, I hop next door to Hum Vegetarian Restaurant for an indulgent oriental meal. The fried rice meals (spinach and pecan) get my attention, but I settle for the Pad Thai instead and don’t regret my choice. Food options in Vietnam can be overwhelming, especially if you eat everything that crawls.
2 pm
Hop across to the iconic Saigon Central Post Office in District 1. This majestic yellow building, completed in 1891, is one of the symbols of French and Gothic architecture in the city. It feels like entering a railway station in Europe, with its domed ceiling and giant clock. The wall maps of Saigon and the postal route between Cambodia and Vietnam attract a lot of attention. Across the road is the Notre Dame Basilica, one of the most photographed landmarks in the city.
4 pm
Coffee shops are ubiquitous in Vietnam, but the most eye-catching ones are located at 42, Nguyen Hue. The complex is better known as The Café Apartment. Once home to American military officers, government officials, this dilapidated block of flats was later given a quirky makeover with several cafés and bistros. The distressed look of this place adds to the charm — ancient tiles, dirty walls, wires falling over. I relax with a Vietnamese cold coffee at Saigon Oi.
Ho Chi Minh City skyline of the financial district and the Bitexco Financial Tower in the evening over looking the Saigon River in Vietnam.
| Photo Credit:
laughingmango
5.30 pm
Dash across the road to the Bitexco Financial Tower, just in time to catch the sunset from Saigon Skydeck that is 49 floors high. Ho Chi Minh City’s burgeoning skyline is only going to expand with the massive development projects in progress. The exhibit of a cyclo (three-wheeled rickshaw) is a popular spot to get pictures clicked. There’s also the option of gazing at the city from the EON51 Heli Bar above.
8 pm
Back at my hostel in suburban District 10, I settle for dinner at an inexpensive eatery recommended by the hostel owner. With a pair of chopsticks, I clumsily negotiate my wholesome, curry-flavoured vegan noodle soup that costs me VND 35,000 (approximately ₹105). As I pay up, the staff are huddled near a laptop, cheering the Vietnam Under-18 side in an international football match.
Day 2
9 am
First, on my list, is another historic Saigon landmark, the Independence Palace that was renamed the Reunification Palace in 1975 when the curtains came down on the war. It was also the residence of former South Vietnam president Nguyen Van Thieu until he was forced to resign before the ‘Fall of Saigon’ on April 30, 1975, when a tank crashed the gates and North Vietnam forces took control. The walkthrough covers several rooms, such as the Presidential bedroom, reception room, banquet hall, the bunkers where the President and his family took refuge during the bombing of the palace, the underground communications room with its vintage transmitters, typewriters and more.
11 am
If shopping is your main agenda, you might need an entire day or two. Ben Thanh Market in District 1 offers a bunch of options. Just be sure the ‘branded’ bags and shirts you are eyeing are genuine. These shops test your bargaining skills and shop owners can switch to self-pity mode if you refuse to give in. The heat gets to all of us, so finally I pick up a couple of souvenirs before grabbing a bite.
2 pm
Time to go neck-deep into war stuff, literally. The Cu Chi Tunnels are a 90-minute drive from Ho Chi Minh City and a popular half-day tour. This fascinating labyrinth of tunnels spanning over 200 kilometres was expanded by the communist Viet Cong army to dupe the Americans. If your size permits, you can go down a tiny, camouflaged manhole (approx. 20-30 centimetres in width and three feet in depth) for a few seconds, and that’s not all — you get to crawl through tunnels that get more claustrophobic as you go along. Most in my tour group pull out at the 30-metre exit. I end up winning my own 100-metre race to the finish. Our tour guide explains the various booby traps and pits in graphic detail. The shooting range is optional. No matter whose side you are on, you can’t help but admire the will of the Viet Cong and their deception techniques.
9 pm
Tunnel-crawl to pub-crawl. At Bui Vien Walking Street, you are warned to watch your belongings and ward off drug dealers as you wander the jam-packed lanes, with bars and cafés spilling over into the streets. A few of us troop off to an outlet offering Banh Mi (a local Vietnamese sandwich) to see what the fuss is all about. After that, it’s back to bar-hopping and sharing travel stories, before we leave the din of District 1.