This fourth century Buddhist site in Visakhapatnam has a rocky road to nirvana

There is a winding road branching off National Highway 16 near Anakapalle that leads to the twin Buddhist sites of Bojjannakonda and Lingalakonda, built between the 4th and 9th centuries. Perched on adjacent hilltops, the broken pillars, and the remnants of walls and doorways are fringed by paddy fields. There is only a small sign that points you in their direction through a road full of pot holes.

The path is just a preview of what awaits the visitor. The site is in a shambles. Statues are defaced, there is graffiti on the walls of the caves, and everywhere one turns, the disrespect for heritage and hallowed buildings is evident in the scrawls on the walls and the vandalised statues. Still, these sites receive hundreds of tourists, not just locally, but also from elsewhere in the country and abroad.

“These sites are among the most important Buddhist sites in South Asia, as they feature elements from three schools of Buddhism, namely Hinayana, Mahayana and Vajrayana. This is evident from the different styles of sculpture and inscriptions,” explains Jayashree Hatangadi, a chronicler who conducts heritage walks here.

“Sadly, there are no boards, nothing to tell visitors about their history. There is no water or toilet amenities. We cannot expect people to continue coming here without providing them with the necessary infrastructure,” she says.

Raju Katam, a former guide with ASI, who continues to be an independent guide post retirement, reiterates Jayashree’s sentiments. “We have visitors from Sri Lanka and Russia. If the Government ticketed the entrance, it would generate funds for upkeep and make these Buddhist sites tourist-friendly.”

Bojjannakonda

Bojjannakonda was excavated in 1906 by Alexander Rea, a British archaeologist. There are 150 steep rock-cut-steps that lead to a cave with a wide opening.

The first stop is a rectangular cave with a broad doorway flanked by tall ‘dwarpalas’ and a modern grated steel door . The cave has a stupa that is surrounded by 16 pillars. But it is difficult to savour the past here as there is no light inside. It is also dangerous, as there is rock debris on the floor begging to be tripped over!

An imposing statue of the Buddha carved into a concave arch sits above the doorway on the second storey. This cave has several statues of the Buddha in different postures, though most of them are defaced. Adding to the decrepitude are stains on the walls left by oily lamps.

Atop the hill is a huge platform made of bricks and surrounded by 52 viharas, that were used for meditation by the monks. These are surrounded by several small stupas.

Lingalakonda

Alexander’s excavation also led to the discovery of Lingalakonda. It has over 250 rock-cut stupas. The uphill climb here isn’t as challenging as it is at Bojjannakonda. There are only 35 steps leading to a gentle slope. This is probably why this site is more visited than the other. According to senior conservationist G Srinivas, ASI, the slope was made around five years ago by ASI.

A large rock-cut stupa on the heritage site welcomes you. By its right side are more stupas in descending order of size. On the left, a pathway leads to the edge of the hill, where over 200 small stupas overlook Bojjannakonda. Between the edge of the hill and the largest stupa, there is a cave-like structure which has a wooden scaffolding.

At the entrance, there is a garden, which was developed with funds allotted for the site. According to Srinivas, the cost of maintaining it is about ₹50,000 per month. But that is not enough, feels Raju. “Despite its historical value, the State isn’t paying much attention to it. There are security guards around the clock to ensure people don’t stay beyond visiting hours. But more needs to be done to inform the visitors and make this place tourist-friendly.”