5 Middle Eastern designers Bollywood celebrities can’t get enough of

The cultural zeitgeist of the Middle East has birthed multiple couture greats, with Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad and Ashi Studio pulling in top billing in iconic celebrity wardrobes across the world. Melting the boundaries yet further, you’ll find a host of new names taking up prime real estate on red carpets in the country, with celebrities having their favourite numbers flown in from halfway across the world for key appearances. Whether it is the prestigious stroll at Cannes or a highly touted wedding reception, the signature embroideries set against the backdrop of sumptuous tulles and chiffons serve as easy candidates for a memorable red carpet outing. If you are looking at expanding your sartorial lexicon, these are the couture labels you’ll want to begin with.

Middle Eastern fashion designers that should be on your radar in 2019

Atelier Zuhra

The signature mirror mosaic bustier should be the first clue that you are about to witness a couture concoction from the Dubai-based label, Atelier Zuhra. Founded by Mousa Al Awfi, the lavish silhouettes occupy their own world of glitzy excess—one that is favoured by the likes of Sonam Kapoor Ahuja, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan and more. The former leaned into the opulence of the design aesthetic by pairing her flared golden gown with a runway-ready headpiece. And soon, the mirror work bodice started clocking in regular appearances on the red carpet, with Alia Bhatt, Sonakshi Sinha and Janhvi Kapoor opting for standout jewel tones. Not one to do things by half measures, Kareena Kapoor Khan picked a head-to-toe mirror work midi dress that lit up like a disco ball under the paparazzi flashes too.

Jean-Louis Sabaji

Touted as the breakout designer at Cannes 2018, Jean-Louis Sabaji’s couture house has only risen up the ranks ever since. As the son of celebrated Lebanese couturier, Jean Sabaji, the construction techniques of the ’80s are visible in the young designer’s sculptural creations, further expressed in a palette of head-turning colours. Case in point: in a sea of reds and blacks, Deepika Padukone’s voluminous coral-hued gown was like a breath of fresh air at a recent awards night. The designer’s versatility with red carpet-ready silhouettes can be also observed in the metallic number that Malaika Arora picked, featuring a gunmetal ruched body with an attached choker detailing.

Yousef Al Jasmi

The Kuwait-based designer’s clout can be credited to the fact that the first international star to wear his creations was Beyoncé. He managed to turn the pop sensation into a repeat customer with his black bodysuit featuring in her ‘Sorry’ music video, which crossed the 250-million mark on YouTube. Cut to a few years later, and the couture label is a mainstay in the wardrobes of Kylie Jenner and her daughter Stormi, Kim Kardashian, Lady Gaga and more. Closer home, his glamorous silhouettes have found a fan in Jacqueline Fernandez, who indulged her extra side with a sparkly gown and that exaggerated faux fur wrap. Janhvi Kapoor also opted for an embellished gown with dramatic sheer panels for a recent event.

Rami Kadi

A recurring favourite in Aishwarya Rai Bachchan’s Cannes repertoire, this Beirut-based couture house is credited for bringing a distinctive contemporary flavour to old school Hollywood silhouettes. The young designer behind the eponymous label has been championing the rise of the nouvelle couture movement with an influx of new techniques—think braided silk bustiers juxtaposed with plastic embellishments. Bachchan’s last Cannes appearance saw her stepping out in an icy blue gown by the couturier, paired with a samurai-esque top knot, while Sonam Kapoor Ahuja was spotted on Koffee with Karan’s sixth season in a custom lilac dress with a flared hem that ended in a joyful burst of plumage.

Reem Acra

From red carpet-ready chiffon concoctions to the pared-down, minimalist vibe of her spring/summer 2019 collection, Acra’s body of work makes for an interesting study in sartorial versatility. While Shilpa Shetty Kundra picked a head-to-toe lamé look for Deepika Padukone and Ranveer Singh’s reception, another red carpet saw Karisma Kapoor working a stately mix of velvet and pleated metallics. Elsewhere, the young guns are heading straight for the couturier’s party-ready silhouettes—Ananya Pandya opted for a blush strapless dress for the same reception, while Janhvi Kapoor headed for an awards function in a gem-encrusted white tulle number that brides-to-be will want to bookmark right away. 

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