Exploring Jhajjar and the culture and quirks of medieval India

The town of Jhajjar is located about an hour’s drive from Gurugram. Historically, the town had a nearby settlement called Malokan, which was destroyed during Muhammed Ghori’s invasion on Delhi. Jhajjar was then reconstructed by a local leader, Chajju Jat. The town remained under local feudal leaders during the Sultanate and Mughal periods and was part of the Delhi subah in Akbar’s reign. In the 18th century, the town shifted from the hands of nawabs of Farrukhnagar to the Marathas and finally to George Thomas, who built a fort in the area before he moved to the nearby town of Hansi.

In the 19th century, Jhajjar was handed over to Nawab Nijamat Ali Khan by the East India Company, which appointed his son Faiz Muhammed Khan as the caretaker in 1813. Jhajar flourished in art and architecture during this period. His grandson Nawab Abdur Rahman, who later built Chuchakwas Palace, is known in Indian history as one of the great martyrs of 1857.

Who would associate this sleepy laid-back town with Bollywood shootings? But considering its historic significance in the 1857 War of Independence, it became one of the shooting sites for the film, ‘Mangal Pandey’ by Aamir Khan. The movie has some interesting shots specifically of the tomb sites, which are protected by the Archaeological Survey of India.

A group of seven tombs is located on the eastern side of town on the Jhajjar- Delhi road near the Bua ka Talab area. The tombs were built during the Mughal period between 1594 and 1630. Each structure is located on a raised platform and has to be approached by a flight of steps. Kankar limestone blocks have been employed for the construction along with red sandstone for decorative purposes. Mostly planned in symmetrical squares, in rectangular and octagonal shapes, the ceilings of the tombs are domical. Some tombs have a mosque or an idgah attached while others have chattris or cupolas in the courtyard. Almost all the tombs bear inscriptions providing valuable information. Another characteristic feature is the presence of medallions in the spandrels of arches. In addition to the tombs, the complex also houses six other structural remains and a huge water tank, all spread in an area of 500m x 300m.

According to an inscription on the earliest tomb, Mian Raib, son of Pyara, built it during Ramzan, 1593-94. In the courtyard, there are two gravestones and a cupola supported on eight pillars. The second tomb, according to an inscription, is that of Hasan Shaheed, who was killed during the reign of Jehangir in 1625 or 1626.

The gateway of the mosque in the third tomb enclosure bears an inscription that identifies it as the tomb of Ismail, son of Raib, who founded the mosque in 1611. This enclosure also has an octagonal cupola, just like the first tomb. The fourth tomb is an octagonal building covered with a dome. The interior is adorned with geometrical and floral patterns painted in various colours. In the courtyard, there is an open cupola with octagonal pillars and an idgah located at the rear. The mosque of the fifth tomb bears an inscription on the central arch that states that it was constructed during the reign of Shah Jahan in 1629-30 by Kalal Khan. The sixth and the seventh tombs only constitute of western walls without any mosque or cupola.

Another historic structure, the Bua Hasan Talab, is located to the east of town on Jhajjar-Delhi road near the group of 7 tombs. This tank was built in 1625 by Kalal Khan, mace-bearer of Emperor Jehangir. The tank is square in plan with steps from the east, west and south sides and a ramp on the north side. The structure is constructed of bricks and clad with stone at the upper level. Approximate dimensions of the tank are 60m x 70m. A small channel is located on the northeast corner and is believed to be the source of water for the tank.

Along with the 7 tombs and Bua Hasan ka Talab, one can also visit other historic monuments in Farrukhnagar and the nearby Chuchkawas Palace, enroute from Gurugram to Jhajjar on a day trip.

(Shikha Jain is state convenor, INTACH and member of Heritage Committees under ministries of culture and HRD. She is co-editor of book ‘Haryana: Cultural Heritage Guide’; director, preservation and community design, DRONAH)

First Published: Mar 18, 2019 12:23 IST