The latest 90s throwback style is your workwear saviour for autumn
If there is one piece of fashion terminology that fills me with the kind of fear normally reserved for sharks and eating whole quail on a date, it's "cut on the bias".
By cutting fabric diagonally, that is 45 degrees against the "grain", it is supposed to make it drape better and flatter natural body lines. But often, when not done with care, it results in a twisty, wedgie-inducing hot mess.
So it brings me a certain trepidation, but also excitement, to inform you that the bias-cut skirt is one of the biggest trends this autumn.
At Sussan's latest showing, the one garment that attracted the most love, from twenty-something Instagram influencers to forty-something editors, was the satin bias-cut skirt.
Perhaps it was the emerald colour (it also came in a micro-leopard print, which is having a literal "can't swing a cat" moment). Perhaps it was the ankle length, perfect for work and weekends. Or maybe it was the elasticised waist (probably because of all the prosciutto and burrata I managed to scoff in 20 minutes).
I asked Anna Lipira, Sussan's apparel and accessories buying manager, why the skirt has featured so strongly in this season's range.
She said one thing that stands out from the 1990s (aside from mum jeans and Jennifer Aniston's hair) is the confidence with which women wore styles such as the Kate Moss-inspired slip dress. But Sussan decided to increase the flexibility of the look by focusing on a skirt in the same cut.
"We have spent hours perfecting the fit, our satin skirt is cut on the bias, has an elastic waist, and will softly shape your body, allowing all sized women to feel comfortable and confident," Lipira said.
Styling it for 2019 means ditching platform heels for something more relaxed, such as a sneaker or mule. For night, switch to an ankle boot in white to pop against the jewel tones and animal prints, or a metallic if your skirt is in a neutral tone.
As for the top, weekends call for a cable-knit jumper, while for work, a check blazer, either with a cinched waist or a more relaxed style to contrast the hip-hugging style of the skirt.
Although Sussan's "flexi" skirt (not a midi, not a maxi) has been in the works for a while, fashion month is already providing plenty of evidence that longer line, structured (but not clingy or body-con) skirts are here to stay.
At Alexander Wang in New York, there were leather ankle-grazing skirts, while in London last week, Roksanda had camel boots popping out of voluminous long skirts in black and burnt orange. And minimalist brand A.W.A.K.E. MODE (stocked in Australia through Matchesfashion.com) also played with longer lengths that are perfect for zipping from school drop-off, to meeting, to casual dinner. Just mind the car door if you opt for something with more oomph.
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Rag & Bone: rag-bone.com