The heady aroma of bamboo chicken from the tribal regions of Araku has been drawing foodies from far and wide. Peppered with towering silver oaks, coffee plantations and pepper creepers, the meandering roads leading to the hill station are lined with the stalls of local villagers making and selling this delicacy. So much has the popularity grown that the bongulo chicken has become synonymous with Araku.
The delicacy is cooked inside a piece of green bamboo stalk without oil, making it healthy and delicious. Locally found herbs are used to make the marination, giving the chicken a unique taste. This year, the demand for the dish was at an all-time high with the high footfall of visitors to Araku.
The bamboo chicken, a dish cooked in bamboo shoots | Photo Credit: Ch Vijaya Bhaskar
“January was the best month for business. We sold 20 kilograms of chicken on a daily basis,” says Gangamma, who is perhaps one of the first to introduce the delicacy to the visitors. She has been selling this chicken speciality for six years from a stall outside the Araku Tribal Museum. Today, within 500 metres of her stalls there are at least 15 other bamboo chicken stalls.
Gangamma says, “We have to be careful with the roasting technique. Too little time on fire and the meat would be uncooked; a bit longer can even burn it. She stuffs around 150-250 grams of chicken in the bamboo stem.” Ask her about the recipe and she smiles, “The key is in the marination. I use a mix of spices grown in my village and this is something you won’t find in any shop.” Not overpowering, the bamboo flavour in the dish is subtle, but a tad high on the spicier side. Served with onions and a slice of lemon, the meat is tender and juicy.
The traditional bamboo chicken preparation | Photo Credit: K R Deepak
The origin
The origin of the dish is traced to Maredumilli, a tribal belt in East Godavari District. How and when the dish made its way to Araku is still unclear.
But it is a big hit among tourists. Chaparai, another popular tourist destination near Araku known for its waterfalls, also has a row of these bamboo chicken stalls.
Thanks to the popularity of the dish, many have stepped out of their tribal village for the first time to make and sell it to outsiders.
S Ramu travelled to Vijayawada last year to participate in a national level art and craft expo where he showcased the bongulo chicken.