DIY herbal hair oil blends that will help you fix every kind of hair issue

Your grandmother was on the right track when she convinced you to douse your hair in oil every Sunday. Apart from making your hair stronger from the root, applying oils on your strands makes them silkier to touch, and even boosts movement and bounce. This is particularly beneficial if your hair is dry or frizzy, or if you regularly use hot tools like blow-dryers or curling irons. “Hair needs to be moisturised because it needs to be protected against the environment,” says Colin Gary Hall, resident aromatherapist, Paro’s Botanica range. “The scalp produces oil to protect the shaft, but if you’re constantly washing your hair, you’re creating an imbalance that causes the scalp to produce more oil to compensate.” He explains that this can further lead to problems such as dandruff, hair fall and excessive oiliness.

Considering 60 per cent of what we apply on the skin gets absorbed into the body, oil application serves as an effective way to get nourishing herbs and nutrients right to the hair roots, where they can make your mane stronger. But just any old oil doesn’t work the miracle—for that, you need the right mix of hair oils and essential oils. In fact, many traditional Ayurvedic oils contain blends that are soothing for the mind—bhringraj and brahmi, for instance, are known to enhance cognitive powers. In an attempt to ensure that you can get the best solution possible for your specific hair concerns, we got Hall, aromatherapy expert Dr Blossom Kochhar and Delhi-based herbalist Suparna Trikha to give us recipes for every type of hair issue, from greying to hair fall and more.

For dandruff

“If you have dandruff, you can apply either almond or jojoba oils, however, moringa has a chemical that kills the bacteria which causes dandruff,” explains Hall, further adding that moringa and marula oils actually have natural UV protecting abilities to shield your hair from sun-related damage. To create your oil blend, take 100ml moringa oil and add 15 drops of cedarwood essential oil (to unclog follicles and boost circulation), 15 drops of lavender essential oil (which has antibacterial and antifungal properties) and 10 drops of lemon essential oil (to restore natural pH). Apply a small amount on the scalp, keep it on overnight or for 20 minutes at the very least, and wash with a mild shampoo.

Dr Kochhar recommends olive or mustard oil for hair that’s prone to dandruff, but never coconut, as that can increase flakiness. For her recipe, you take a couple of tablespoons of olive or mustard oil and add two drops of patchouli (antibacterial and anti-inflammatory) and one drop of cedarwood essential oil. “After shampoo, use apple cider vinegar diluted in water as the last rinse,” she says.

For hair growth

“Macadamia oil is super nourishing and excellent for falling hair,” says Hall. To enhance density, he also suggests a blend of essential oils that stimulate hair follicles. Mix 100ml macadamia oil with 10 drops of thyme essential oil (to boost blood circulation and balance sebum production), 15 drops of lemon essential oil (to kill bacteria, and clean and stimulate the scalp) and 15 drops of geranium oil (to balance hormones). He says that if you don’t have macadamia oil on hand, you can swap it for almond oil too.

Dr Kochhar recommends a tablespoon of olive oil with a teaspoon of castor oil and two drops each of rosemary (to stimulate growth) and lavender essential oils. “Use a hot towel to steam your hair so that the blend penetrates the root and shaft, and then shampoo after 20 minutes.” After shampooing, apply one or two drops of lavender essential oil (depending on your thickness and length) diluted with a teaspoon of water, and apply all over your strands. “If your hair is oily and falling [easily], avoid applying a lot of oil,” says Kochhar. Mix a tablespoon of distilled rose water with two drops of patchouli oil and massage the scalp first, before shampooing and repeating the diluted apple cider vinegar wash.

Trikha’s recipe, on the other hand, suggests boiling 500ml of sesame oil with 50gm each of triphala, brahmi powder and fenugreek seeds. Boil for about 30 minutes, strain and store in an airtight bottle. These herbs stimulate new hair growth, nourish the scalp and clear it of any bacterial and fungal infections.

For dry hair

“Marula oil rejects ultraviolet lights that damage the hair, so it is excellent for brittle hair,” says Hall. Blend 100ml with 15 drops of frankincense essential oil (to treat dryness), 10 drops of carrot seed oil (full of antioxidants and anti-ageing properties), and 15 drops of geranium oil (for hormone balance). “Dryness is also a symptom of hormonal imbalance, so this aspect must also be looked at if your hair feels brittle.” Again, you can sub macadamia oil for argan or almond oils.

For greying hair

Enhance the natural darkness of your strands with this traditional Indian recipe by Trikha, which helps maintain colour and prevent greys. Burn 100gm of amla powder in an iron wok till it turns ashen. Then, add 200ml mustard oil and 200ml sesame oil on a slow fire for 30 minutes. Let the oil blend stand overnight, before straining and storing in an airtight bottle. For application, use it on your mane before you go to sleep, and rinse off with a clarifying shampoo in the morning.

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